Chives in Zone 3A — Great Plains

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Great Plains garden. Their mild onion flavor brightens up everything from scrambled eggs to baked potatoes. Plus, they're incredibly easy to grow, providing a continuous supply of fresh herbs throughout our intense summer.

Our region can throw some extreme weather your way, with late frosts and the risk of hail. But with a little planning and attention to timing, you can easily enjoy a bountiful chive harvest within our roughly 108-day growing season.

Starting chives indoors in the Plains is definitely an option, especially if you're itching to get gardening before the ground thaws. Start your seeds indoors in early to late March, about 8 weeks before you plan to transplant them outside. Use seed trays with good drainage and keep them in a warm spot with plenty of light, maybe under a grow light.

Don't forget to bottom water your seedlings – it helps prevent damping off. Keep in mind our springs are variable, so be prepared to protect your young plants if there's a late cold snap.

Transplant your chive seedlings outdoors from mid May through early June, after the risk of frost has passed. Before transplanting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. Plant them 8-12 inches apart in well-drained soil.

Keep an eye on the forecast during this time; a late hailstorm can decimate young plants. Honestly, buying established chive starts or dividing existing clumps is a much faster way to get a harvest.

Direct sowing chives is possible, but be prepared for a slower start. Sow seeds late April through early June when the soil has warmed up. Prepare the soil well, ensuring it's loose and free of clumps.

Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep, spacing them 8-12 inches apart. Keep the soil consistently moist. Just a heads up: chives are slow to establish from seed, so divisions or purchased starts will give you a jumpstart.

Chives need consistent moisture, especially during our hot Plains summers, but they don't like to be waterlogged. Aim to water them deeply once or twice a week, providing about 1 inch of water each time, depending on rainfall. Use the finger test: stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water.

During the hottest part of summer, you might need to water more frequently, especially if rainfall is scarce. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our low-to-moderate humidity.

Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves. Overwatering can lead to bulb rot, so make sure your soil drains well. A layer of mulch, like straw or shredded bark, can help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, especially beneficial during our extreme temperature swings.

You can expect your first chive harvest from mid July through mid September, about 80 days after planting. The best time to harvest is when the leaves are at least 6 inches tall. Use scissors to cut the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base.

This encourages new growth, so keep harvesting regularly throughout the summer to enjoy a continuous supply. As the first frost approaches in early September, you can either let your chives die back naturally or pot up some clumps to bring indoors for winter use. Divide clumps every 3 years to keep them vigorous.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with chives in the Great Plains:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots feeding on the bulbs.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of the plants, and the larvae burrow into the bulbs. This is more common during periods of cool, wet weather in spring and early summer.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Encourage beneficial nematodes in the soil.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Soft, mushy bulbs, yellowing leaves, and a foul odor.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly drained soil creates conditions that favor fungal and bacterial pathogens that cause bulb rot.
• How to fix/prevent it: Plant chives in well-drained soil. Avoid overwatering. Improve soil drainage by adding compost or other organic matter. Remove and destroy any infected plants.

Great Plains Specific Challenges: Our hot summers and variable rainfall can stress chives, making them more susceptible to these problems. Consistent watering and good soil drainage are key to keeping your plants healthy. Wind protection is essential.

Chives make great companions for several plants in the Great Plains garden. Plant them near carrots to deter carrot root flies. They also benefit tomatoes by repelling aphids and other pests. Roses benefit from chives planted nearby because they deter black spot. Grapes also enjoy the pest-repelling properties of chives.

Avoid planting chives near green beans and peas, as they can inhibit their growth. It's all about creating a little ecosystem that benefits everyone!