Chives in Zone 4A — Great Plains

Chives are a must-have in any Great Plains garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from scrambled eggs to baked potatoes, and they’re so easy to grow. Plus, the cheerful purple blossoms are a welcome sight and attract pollinators.

Our extreme weather can be a bit of a challenge, but chives are pretty forgiving. With a little attention to timing, you can enjoy fresh chives throughout our 138-day growing season.

Starting chives indoors gives you a head start, especially if you're north in our region where the growing season is shorter. Begin in late February through mid March, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix. Keep them warm and provide plenty of light – a grow light is really helpful. Bottom watering is key to avoid damping off; just set the tray in a shallow dish of water until the soil surface looks moist. This is especially useful because the spring weather in the Plains can be so variable.

Transplant your chives outdoors in late April through late May once the danger of hard frost has passed. Before transplanting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Space the plants 8-12 inches apart in well-drained soil. A cloudy day is best for transplanting, but that's a rare gift here on the Plains. If the forecast is for sun, water thoroughly after transplanting. Remember, buying starts or dividing existing clumps is a much faster way to get established chives than starting from seed.

Direct sowing chives is definitely an option, especially if you're a patient gardener. Sow seeds outdoors from mid April through late June.

Make sure the soil is well-worked and the soil temperature is consistently above 60°F. Sow the seeds about ¼ inch deep and keep the soil consistently moist. Just be aware that chives are slow to establish from seed, so divisions or purchased starts will get you to harvest much faster.

Chives need moderate and consistent watering, especially during our hot Plains summers. They're more tolerant of moisture than some other herbs, but they're definitely not drought-tolerant.

During the peak of summer, when temperatures hit the 90s, check the soil moisture every few days. Stick your finger about two inches deep into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about an inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Watering at the base of the plant is best to avoid fungal issues, which can pop up even with our low-to-moderate humidity.

Signs of underwatering include drooping leaves and a lack of new growth. Overwatering, on the other hand, can lead to yellowing leaves and potentially bulb rot. Mulching around your chives with straw or wood chips helps retain moisture and keeps the soil cooler during our hot summers.

You can expect your first harvest of chives from early July through early October, depending on whether you started from seed or transplants. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall.

To harvest, simply snip the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth, so don't be shy about harvesting regularly. Chives will continue to produce new growth throughout the growing season.

As the first frost approaches in late September, give your chives a final trim. You can freeze the chopped chives for use throughout the winter. Also, consider dividing established clumps every three years to maintain vigor.

Even though chives are easy to grow, you might run into a few problems here on the Great Plains.

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots at the base of the plant or in the bulbs.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of the plant, and the larvae burrow into the bulbs to feed.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy infested plants. Introduce beneficial nematodes to the soil.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing or wilting leaves, mushy bulbs, and a foul odor.
• What causes it: Excessive moisture in the soil, especially during periods of heavy rainfall, can lead to bulb rot. Poor drainage contributes to this.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure the soil is well-draining. Avoid overwatering. Amend heavy clay soils with compost or other organic matter.

Great Plains Specific Challenges: Our extreme temperature swings and variable rainfall can stress chives, making them more susceptible to these problems. Monitor your plants closely and adjust your watering practices accordingly.

Chives are great companions for several plants in your Great Plains garden. Carrots benefit from chives because the oniony scent repels carrot rust flies. Tomatoes also appreciate chives nearby, as they deter aphids and other pests. Roses thrive with chives planted around them, as chives help to prevent black spot and other fungal diseases. Grapes benefit from the pest deterring properties of chives.

Avoid planting chives near beans or peas. Chives can inhibit their growth.