Chives in Zone 6A — Mid-Atlantic

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Mid-Atlantic garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from salads to soups, and their pretty purple blooms attract pollinators. Plus, harvesting fresh herbs from your own backyard here in our four-season climate is incredibly satisfying.

Our humid summers and variable spring weather can present some challenges, but with a little attention to timing, you can easily grow chives successfully. Our 188-day growing season gives you plenty of time to enjoy a continuous harvest.

Starting chives indoors in our region is possible, but honestly, it's usually not necessary unless you're really eager for an early start. If you want to get a jump start, sow seeds indoors from late January through mid February, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant. Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, provide warmth (a heat mat helps), and make sure they get plenty of light, either from a grow light or a sunny windowsill. Bottom watering helps prevent damping off.

Transplant your chive seedlings outdoors in early to late April, once the danger of a hard frost has passed. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. Space them 8-12 inches apart in a sunny spot. Keep an eye on the weather forecast – we sometimes get unexpected cold snaps here. Honestly, buying starts from a local nursery or dividing established clumps is a much faster way to get chives growing in your garden.

Direct sowing chives is definitely an option for Mid-Atlantic gardeners. Sow seeds from mid March through mid July, once the soil has warmed up a bit. Prepare the soil well, making sure it's loose and well-draining. Space seeds 8-12 inches apart. Just be aware that chives are slow to establish from seed, so you'll need some patience. Again, divisions or starts are generally quicker.

Chives prefer moderate, consistent moisture, which can be a bit of a balancing act in our Mid-Atlantic climate. We get fairly even rainfall throughout the year, but our humid summers can also bring periods of drought. During the hotter months, check the soil moisture regularly. Stick your finger about two inches deep – if it feels dry, it's time to water.

Typically, chives need about an inch of water per week, whether from rain or irrigation. Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid conditions. Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves, while overwatering can lead to yellowing and root rot.

A layer of mulch around your chives will help retain moisture and suppress weeds. Use something like shredded leaves or straw, which are readily available here.

You can expect your first harvest of chives in early June through late October, about 80 days after planting. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall. To harvest, simply snip the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth and keeps your chives producing throughout the season.

Harvest regularly to prevent the plants from flowering, which can make the leaves tougher. At the end of the season, as the first frost approaches in mid- October, give your chives a final trim. You can either let them die back naturally or try bringing a clump indoors to overwinter. After about three years, divide the clumps to maintain vigor.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with chives in the Mid-Atlantic:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots at the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion family plants. The maggots hatch and burrow into the bulbs, feeding on the tissue.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Practice crop rotation.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot

• What it looks like: Yellowing or browning leaves, mushy bulbs, and a foul odor.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly draining soil can lead to bulb rot, especially in our region with even rainfall.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure your soil is well-draining. Avoid overwatering. If you have heavy clay soil, amend it with compost or other organic matter.

Mid-Atlantic Specific Challenges: Our humid summers and even rainfall can create ideal conditions for fungal diseases like rust and bulb rot. Be sure to provide good air circulation and avoid overhead watering to minimize these problems. Deer pressure can also be an issue, so consider fencing or other deterrents if deer are common in your area.

Chives make great companions for several plants in the Mid-Atlantic garden. Carrots benefit from chives because the onion scent repels carrot root flies. Tomatoes also thrive near chives, as the chives deter aphids and other pests. Roses benefit from the pest-repelling properties of chives, as well. Grapes also enjoy the pest protection.

Avoid planting chives near beans-green or peas, as they can inhibit their growth.