Chives in Zone 6A — Northeast

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Northeast garden. Their mild, oniony flavor brightens up everything from omelets to salads, and they're incredibly easy to grow. Plus, the cheerful purple flowers attract pollinators, making your garden both beautiful and productive.

Our short growing season and occasional late frosts can be a challenge, but chives are surprisingly hardy. With a little planning, you can easily fit them into your 178-day growing season and enjoy fresh chives from mid-summer right up until the first frost.

Starting chives indoors in early to late February gives you a head start, especially if you want a really early harvest. It's not strictly necessary, as chives direct sow readily, but it can be helpful if you're impatient or want to maximize your yield.

Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix. Keep the soil consistently moist—bottom watering is a great way to avoid damping off. Place the trays in a warm spot with plenty of light, either from a sunny window or a grow light. Remember, spring can be slow to arrive here, so the extra light is beneficial.

Transplant your chive seedlings outdoors from early April through early May, once the threat of a hard frost has passed. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Choose a spot with full sun to partial shade and space the plants 8-12 inches apart. While starting from seed is rewarding, consider that buying established starts from a local nursery or dividing existing clumps is a much faster way to get a thriving chive patch going.

Direct sowing chives is a perfectly viable option in the Northeast, especially if you're not in a rush. Sow the seeds from late March through mid July, once the soil has warmed up a bit.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and removing any rocks – we all know how rocky our New England soil can be! Sprinkle the seeds evenly over the surface and lightly cover them with soil. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seeds germinate. Just be aware that chives are slow to establish from seed, so be patient. Divisions or starts will give you a quicker return.

Chives need moderate, consistent watering to thrive in our Northeast climate. While we get a decent amount of rainfall, it's important to pay attention to the soil moisture, especially during drier spells.

A good rule of thumb is to water deeply once or twice a week, providing about an inch of water each time. Stick your finger about two inches into the soil – if it feels dry, it's time to water. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, as our moderate-to-humid summers can encourage fungal diseases.

Overwatering can lead to bulb rot, so make sure the soil is well-draining. Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves, while overwatering can cause the leaves to turn mushy and brown. A layer of mulch around the plants helps retain moisture and suppress weeds, which is always a plus.

You can expect your first chive harvest from mid June through late October, about 80 days after planting. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall.

To harvest, simply snip the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth and keeps the plant producing. Harvest regularly throughout the growing season to keep your chives fresh and flavorful.

As the first frost approaches in mid- October, don't worry – chives are hardy and can withstand a light frost. You can either cover them to extend the harvest a bit longer or simply let them die back and they'll return in the spring. Every 3 years, divide the clumps to maintain vigor.

Here are three common problems you might encounter growing chives in the Northeast:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots near the base of the plant or in the bulbs.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion family plants, and the larvae burrow into the bulbs, causing damage.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Encourage beneficial insects like parasitic wasps.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing leaves, mushy bulbs, and a foul odor.
• What causes it: Excessive moisture in the soil, especially during periods of heavy rainfall, can lead to fungal or bacterial rot.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure good drainage. Avoid overwatering. Amend heavy clay soils with compost. Consider raised beds if your soil is consistently waterlogged.

Northeast Specific Challenges: Our moderate heat, moderate-to-humid humidity, and even rainfall can create favorable conditions for fungal diseases like rust and bulb rot. Good air circulation and proper watering techniques are key to preventing these problems.

Chives make excellent companions for several plants in your Northeast garden. Carrots benefit from chives because the scent deters carrot root flies. Tomatoes also thrive near chives, as they help repel aphids and other pests. Roses benefit from chives' ability to deter black spot. Grapes enjoy the pest protection offered by chives.

Avoid planting chives near beans or peas. Chives can inhibit their growth.