Chives in Zone 7A — Desert Southwest

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Desert Southwest garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from eggs to salads, and the pretty purple flowers are a bonus for both beauty and attracting pollinators. Plus, there's real satisfaction in snipping fresh herbs you've grown yourself, even in our challenging climate.

Sure, the extreme heat and dry air present unique hurdles, but with careful planning and attention to watering, you can absolutely enjoy a thriving patch of chives here. Our long, 230-day growing season gives you ample time to establish them and reap the rewards.

Starting chives indoors gives you a head start, but it's not always necessary. If you're eager to get a jump on the season, aim to sow seeds indoors in early to late January, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant them outside.

Use seed trays with good drainage and a well-draining seed-starting mix. Keep the trays warm and provide plenty of light – a grow light is ideal. Don’t forget to water from the bottom to encourage strong root growth. With our very-early spring, you'll want to be ready to move seedlings out as soon as conditions allow.

Once the weather starts to warm up in mid-March through early April, it's time to transplant your chives seedlings outdoors. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Choose a spot with full sun to partial shade and space the plants 8-12 inches apart. Remember, buying established chives starts from a local nursery or dividing existing clumps is a much faster way to get a harvest than starting from seed.

Direct sowing is a viable option for chives in our region, especially if you’re not in a rush. Sow seeds from late February through early August.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and amending with compost. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge, which can take a couple of weeks. Space the seeds 8-12 inches apart. Just remember that chives are slow to establish from seed, so be patient. Divisions or starts will give you a quicker harvest.

Watering is critical for chives survival in our arid climate. They need moderate, consistent moisture, but don't like to sit in soggy soil. Unlike some herbs, they are more tolerant of moisture.

During the cooler spring and fall months, water deeply about once a week, providing about 1 inch of water. In the extreme heat of summer, you'll likely need to water every other day, or even daily, to keep them happy. Use the finger test: stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water.

Always water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases, even in our dry air. Signs of underwatering include wilted or yellowing leaves, while overwatering can lead to root rot. Adding a layer of mulch around the plants can help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.

You can expect your first harvest of chives starting in mid-May and continuing through mid-November. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall.

To harvest, simply snip the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth and keeps the chives producing throughout the season. Harvest regularly to prevent the plants from flowering, as this can diminish the flavor of the leaves.

As the first frost approaches in early November, give your chives a final trim. This will help them conserve energy over the winter and prepare for a strong start in the spring. Divide clumps every 3 years to maintain vigor.

Here are the top 3 common problems with chives in the Desert Southwest:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots near the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion family plants. The maggots hatch and burrow into the bulbs, feeding on the tissue.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use floating row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Consider using beneficial nematodes.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and a mushy, foul-smelling bulb.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly draining soil can create conditions favorable for fungal or bacterial pathogens that cause bulb rot.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure good drainage by amending the soil with compost or other organic matter. Water only when the top inch of soil is dry. Avoid overwatering, especially during periods of heavy monsoon moisture.

Desert Southwest Specific Challenges: The extreme heat of our summers can stress chives, making them more susceptible to pests and diseases. Our arid humidity means that rust isn't as common as it is in other regions, but it can still occur, especially during monsoon season. Alkaline soil can also be a challenge, so amend with compost to improve the soil's pH.

Chives are great companions for many plants in your Desert Southwest garden. Carrots benefit from chives because they deter carrot root flies. Tomatoes grow better near chives because they repel aphids and other pests. Roses also appreciate chives as they help to prevent black spot and other fungal diseases. Grapes can benefit from the pest-repelling qualities of chives.

Avoid planting chives near beans or peas. Chives can inhibit the growth of these legumes, reducing your harvest.