Chives in Zone 7A — Midwest

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Midwest garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from scrambled eggs to baked potatoes, and they're incredibly easy to grow here in Zone 7A. Plus, the cheerful purple flowers are a welcome sight in the garden.

Our Midwest weather can be unpredictable, with cold winters and the occasional summer heat spell. But don't worry, chives are quite hardy, and our 193-day growing season provides ample time to get a good harvest. With a little planning, you'll be snipping fresh chives all season long.

Starting chives indoors is an option, but honestly, it's usually not necessary here in the Midwest. If you're itching to get a head start or want a large patch quickly, you can start seeds indoors from late January through mid February. This gives them about 8 weeks to get a jump before transplanting.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix and keep them in a warm spot with plenty of light – a sunny windowsill or under grow lights works well. Remember to water from the bottom to prevent damping off. Given our moderate-to-late spring, this can give you a head start if you are eager.

Transplanting chives outdoors is best done from late March through late April. Before you move them outside, be sure to "harden off" your seedlings. This means gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Space your chive plants 8-12 inches apart in a sunny or partially shaded spot. Keep an eye on the Midwest weather – watch for late frost warnings and cover your transplants if needed. If you're impatient, buying established chive plants or dividing existing clumps is a much faster way to get a thriving patch.

Direct sowing chives is a perfectly viable option, especially if you're not in a rush. You can sow seeds directly into the garden from mid March through mid July.

Make sure the soil is loose and well-drained. While our fertile soil is a plus, chives still appreciate a little compost mixed in. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seeds germinate. Space seeds about 8-12 inches apart. Just be aware that chives are slow to establish from seed, so divisions or starts will give you faster results.

Chives thrive with moderate and consistent watering, which is good news since our Midwest summers can be humid. Aim to keep the soil consistently moist, but not soggy.

During the warmer months, especially during our summer heat spells, check the soil moisture regularly. Stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil – if it feels dry, it's time to water. Typically, an inch of water per week is sufficient, but adjust based on rainfall. Given our moderate-to-humid climate, watering at the base of the plant is preferable to overhead watering to prevent fungal diseases.

Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves. Overwatering, on the other hand, can lead to bulb rot. Mulching around your chives with straw or shredded leaves helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, which is especially helpful during those hot summer months.

You can expect your first chive harvest from early June through late October here in Zone 7A. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall.

To harvest, simply snip the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth, and you can harvest continuously throughout the growing season. Deadheading the flowers will also encourage more leaf production.

As the first frost approaches in mid- October, you can either bring a pot of chives indoors to enjoy fresh herbs all winter or let them die back naturally. Don't forget to divide clumps every 3 years to keep them vigorous!

Here are some common problems you might encounter with chives in the Midwest:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots near the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion family plants. The maggots then burrow into the bulbs and feed on the plant tissue.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Introduce beneficial nematodes to the soil.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing or browning leaves, mushy bulbs, and a foul odor.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly drained soil creates an environment where fungal pathogens thrive, leading to bulb rot. Our clay soil can exacerbate this issue.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure good drainage by amending the soil with compost or other organic matter. Water only when the top inch of soil is dry. Avoid overwatering.

Midwest Specific Challenges: The combination of moderate-to-hot heat, moderate-to-humid humidity, and wet-summer rainfall in the Midwest can create ideal conditions for fungal diseases like rust and bulb rot. Be vigilant about monitoring your plants and taking preventative measures to ensure a healthy chive crop.

Companion planting can really give your chives a boost. Carrots benefit from chives because the chives deter carrot rust flies. Tomatoes love chives because they repel aphids and other pests. Roses benefit from chives' ability to deter black spot. Grapes appreciate chives because they deter Japanese beetles.

On the other hand, avoid planting chives near beans or peas. Chives can inhibit the growth of these legumes.