Chives in Zone 7A — Northern California

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Northern California garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from salads to soups, and they're incredibly easy to grow in our Mediterranean climate. Plus, the cheerful purple flowers attract beneficial pollinators to your garden.

While we face challenges like drought and occasional water restrictions, chives are fairly adaptable. Our long growing season (around 235 days!) gives you ample time to plant, harvest, and enjoy these versatile herbs.

Starting chives indoors makes sense if you want a head start, especially if you're aiming for an extra-early harvest. Start your seeds indoors in early to late January, about eight weeks before our last frost. This is especially helpful if you are in a microclimate that has a shorter growing season.

Use seed trays filled with a good seed-starting mix. Keep them warm and provide plenty of light—a sunny windowsill or a grow light works well. Bottom watering helps keep the seedlings consistently moist without encouraging fungal diseases; just place the tray in a shallow dish of water until the soil surface is damp. Since our springs tend to arrive early, indoor starting gives you a jump on the season.

Transplant your chive seedlings outdoors in early March through early April, once the soil has warmed up a bit. Before transplanting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Choose a spot with full sun to partial shade, and space the plants 8-12 inches apart. Keep an eye on the weather forecast; we can sometimes get a late cold snap, so be prepared to cover your seedlings if necessary. Buying established chive plants from a nursery or dividing existing clumps is a much faster way to get started than growing from seed.

Direct sowing chives is a straightforward option, but they can be slow to establish from seed. Sow seeds outdoors from mid February through early August. Choose a location with full sun to partial shade.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and removing any weeds. Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep and keep the soil consistently moist. Remember, chives are slow to germinate, so be patient. For quicker results, consider starting with established plants or dividing existing clumps.

Chives need moderate and consistent watering, especially during our dry summers. Unlike some other herbs that thrive on neglect, chives prefer consistently moist soil. They're more tolerant of moisture than many other herbs.

During the hotter months, from late May through September, give your chives about 1 inch of water per week. Use the "finger test" – stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our climate.

Signs of underwatering include wilting and yellowing leaves. Overwatering can lead to bulb rot, so make sure the soil is well-draining. A layer of mulch, like shredded bark or compost, can help retain moisture and keep the soil cool during our hot, dry summers.

You can expect your first chive harvest starting in mid May and continuing through mid November. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall. These are a good size for harvest.

To harvest, simply snip the leaves 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth. Regular harvesting promotes continuous production throughout the growing season.

As our first frost approaches in early November, cut back the remaining foliage to encourage new growth the following spring. Consider dividing your chive clumps every three years to keep them vigorous and productive.

Here are a few common problems you might encounter with chives in Northern California:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots at the base of the plant or in the bulb.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of the plant, and the larvae burrow into the bulb to feed. This is more common in areas with poor sanitation and crop rotation.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy any infested plants. Practice good sanitation by removing plant debris. Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Rust fungi spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot

• What it looks like: Yellowing or wilting leaves, mushy bulbs, and a foul odor.
• What causes it: Overwatering and poorly draining soil can lead to bulb rot, especially during our wetter winter months.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure the soil is well-draining. Avoid overwatering. Plant in raised beds if necessary. Remove and destroy any affected plants.

Northern California Specific Challenges: Our moderate-to-hot heat and low humidity can stress chives if they're not watered consistently. Watch for signs of underwatering during the peak of summer. While bulb rot is less of a concern during our dry summers, be vigilant during the winter months when rainfall is more frequent.

Chives make excellent companions for several plants in Northern California gardens:

• Carrots: Chives repel carrot root flies, protecting your carrot crop.
• Tomatoes: Chives can help deter aphids and other pests that commonly attack tomatoes.
• Roses: Chives are believed to improve the fragrance and health of roses while also deterring aphids.
• Grapes: Chives can help repel Japanese beetles, which can damage grapevines.

Avoid planting chives near beans or peas, as they can inhibit their growth. By choosing the right companions, you can create a thriving and pest-resistant garden in our unique Northern California climate.