Chives in Zone 8A — Pacific Northwest

Chives are a garden workhorse here in the Pacific Northwest. Their mild onion flavor brightens up everything from salads to soups, and they're incredibly easy to grow. Plus, the cheerful purple blossoms attract pollinators to your garden, adding beauty and function.

Our mild summers and long, cool falls mean you can harvest chives for a good chunk of the year. While we might not have the scorching heat some areas do, timing your planting right ensures you get a fantastic harvest within our 203-day growing season.

Starting chives indoors can give you a head start, but honestly, it's not always necessary in our climate. If you're itching to get going early, aim to sow seeds indoors from late January through mid February, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, and keep them in a warm spot with plenty of light—a sunny windowsill or under grow lights works well. Remember to water from the bottom to avoid damping off. The PNW spring can be slow to warm up, so starting indoors gives them a jump.

Transplanting chives outdoors is best done from late March through late April. Before you move them, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the cooler temperatures and wind.

Plant them 8-12 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Keep an eye on the weather forecast—those late-season cold snaps can still happen. Keep in mind that buying starts or dividing existing clumps is a much faster route to chive abundance than starting from seed.

Direct sowing chives is certainly an option here, and works well if you're patient. Aim to sow seeds from mid March through late July, once the soil has warmed up a bit.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and removing any weeds. Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep, and space them 8-12 inches apart. Be aware that chives are slow to establish from seed, so don't expect a huge harvest right away. Again, divisions or starts are a quicker path to fresh chives.

Chives like consistent moisture, but they don't want to be waterlogged, so watering needs are moderate. In the PNW, our watering schedule depends heavily on rainfall, especially during our dry summer months.

During the wet springs, you might not need to water them at all. Once summer hits, check the soil moisture by sticking your finger about two inches deep. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about an inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid springs and early summers.

Signs of underwatering include droopy, yellowing leaves, while overwatering can lead to root rot. Applying a layer of mulch, like compost or straw, can help retain moisture and keep the soil cool during our mild summer heat.

You can expect your first chive harvest from early June through early November. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall. These are ready to be snipped.

To harvest, simply cut the leaves 1-2 inches above the base of the plant with scissors or garden shears. This encourages new growth. Harvest regularly to keep the plant producing; the more you cut, the more it grows.

As the first frost approaches in late October, cut back the chives to a few inches above the ground. They'll go dormant over the winter and come back strong in the spring. Divide clumps every 3 years to rejuvenate plants.

Here are a few common problems you might encounter with chives in the Pacific Northwest:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots near the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion family plants. The maggots then burrow into the bulbs and roots.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Rotate crops each year.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and a soft, mushy bulb at the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Overly wet soil, especially during our wet springs, creates an environment where fungal pathogens thrive.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure good drainage in your planting beds. Avoid overwatering. Amend heavy clay soils with compost to improve drainage.

Pacific Northwest Specific Challenges: Our mild heat and dry-summer rainfall mean that rust can be a problem in spring and early summer when humidity lingers. Good air circulation and avoiding overhead watering are key to prevention.

Chives make excellent companions for many plants in your Pacific Northwest garden. Carrots benefit from chives because the oniony scent repels carrot root flies. Tomatoes also thrive alongside chives, as they deter aphids and other pests. Roses benefit from chives' ability to deter aphids and black spot. Grapes benefit from increased resistance to fungal diseases.

Avoid planting chives near beans-green and peas, as they can inhibit their growth.