Chives in Zone 8B — Southeast

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Southeast garden. Their mild onion flavor brightens up everything from salads to soups, and they’re so easy to grow, even in our long summer. Plus, a patch of chives buzzing with pollinators is a welcome sight.

Our hot and humid summers can bring challenges, but with a little planning, you can enjoy a steady supply of chives throughout our lengthy 255-day growing season. Focus on good drainage and smart watering habits, and you’ll be set.

Starting chives indoors gives you a head start, but it's not strictly necessary here in the Southeast. If you want the earliest possible harvest, you can start seeds indoors from late December through mid January, about eight weeks before our last frost.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix and keep them warm and well-lit, ideally with grow lights. Bottom watering is a great way to keep the soil consistently moist without overdoing it. Our springs can be moderate, so you'll want a good-sized transplant ready to go when the weather cooperates.

Transplant your chives outdoors from late February through late March, after the danger of hard frost has passed. Before transplanting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Plant them 8-12 inches apart in well-drained soil. Keep an eye on the weather forecast – we can still get some chilly nights that time of year, so be prepared to cover them if needed. Honestly, though, buying starts or dividing existing clumps is a much faster way to get a thriving patch of chives.

Direct sowing chives is definitely an option here in the Southeast, and you can do it from early February through mid August. Prepare your soil well, making sure it's loose and drains well, and wait until the soil temperature is consistently above 60°F.

Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep and 8-12 inches apart. Keep the soil consistently moist. Just be patient – chives are slow to establish from seed, so it may take a while to see significant growth. Again, divisions or starts will give you a quicker return.

Chives need moderate, consistent watering, especially during our hot and humid summers. They're a bit more tolerant of moisture than some other herbs, but good drainage is still key.

During the hotter months, check the soil moisture every few days using the "finger test" – stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid climate.

In the cooler months, you can reduce watering frequency. Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves, while overwatering can lead to root rot. A layer of mulch around your chives helps retain moisture and suppress weeds, just be sure it doesn't stay soggy.

You can expect your first harvest of chives from early May through late November here in the Southeast, depending on when you planted. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall.

To harvest, simply cut the leaves 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth and keeps your chives producing. You can harvest continuously throughout the growing season.

As our first frost approaches in mid- November, cut back the remaining foliage to a few inches above the ground. The plant will go dormant and return in the spring. Every 3 years or so, divide the clumps to keep them vigorous.

Here are a few common problems you might encounter growing chives in the Southeast:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots feeding on the bulb.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of the plant, and the larvae burrow into the bulb.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy infested plants. Rotate crops to avoid buildup of onion fly populations in the soil.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Soft, mushy bulbs and yellowing or wilting foliage.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly draining soil creates conditions that favor fungal pathogens that cause bulb rot.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure good drainage by planting in well-draining soil or raised beds. Avoid overwatering. Apply a fungicide if necessary.

Southeast Specific Challenges: Our hot, humid climate, combined with our wet-summer rainfall, can create ideal conditions for fungal diseases like rust and bulb rot. Be sure to provide good air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and monitor your plants regularly for signs of disease.

Chives make great companions for several plants in the Southeast garden. Carrots benefit from chives because the onion-like scent deters carrot root flies. Tomatoes also appreciate chives, as they can help repel aphids and other pests. Roses benefit from chives planted nearby, as they are said to deter black spot and aphids. Grapes enjoy chives as a deterrent to certain pests.

Avoid planting chives near beans or peas, as they can inhibit the growth of these legumes.