Chives in Zone 9B — Southern California

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Southern California garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from eggs to salads, and you can snip fresh herbs right outside your door year-round. Plus, they're pretty enough to tuck into flower beds!

While we face challenges like drought and summer heat inland, chives are surprisingly adaptable here. Our long, 334-day growing season gives you plenty of opportunities to get them established and enjoy a continuous harvest.

Starting chives indoors in early to late November (about 8 weeks before transplanting) gives you a head start, but honestly, it's not always necessary in our mild climate. If you want to get a jump on the season, it’s a fine option.

Use seed trays or small pots filled with seed-starting mix, keeping them consistently moist (bottom watering helps prevent damping off). A warm location and grow lights will encourage germination. Remember, our spring character is very-early, so getting a head start can pay off.

Transplant your chive seedlings outdoors from mid January through early February. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the sunshine and temperatures.

Space them 8-12 inches apart in a sunny or partially shaded spot. Keep an eye on the weather; even though our winters are mild, a cold snap can still stress young transplants. Honestly, you might find it easier to buy established starts from a local nursery or divide existing clumps – it’s much faster than starting from seed.

Direct sowing chives is definitely an option here, and you can do it from late December through late September. Prepare the soil by loosening it and adding compost. Chives need consistent moisture to germinate, so keep the soil consistently moist.

Sow seeds 8-12 inches apart. Be patient, as chives are slow to establish from seed. If you want quicker results, consider dividing existing clumps or buying starts; they'll give you a harvest much sooner.

Chives need moderate, consistent watering, especially during our hot, dry summers. Unlike some herbs that prefer to dry out between waterings, chives like consistently moist soil. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week, increasing it during heat waves.

Stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage and potentially encouraging fungal diseases, which can be a problem even with our low-to-moderate humidity.

Signs of underwatering include drooping or yellowing leaves. Overwatering can lead to bulb rot, so make sure the soil drains well. A layer of mulch around the base of the plants helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, which is especially helpful during those summer heat inland periods.

You can expect your first harvest of chives from mid March through early January, about 80 days after planting. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall. That's when they're mature enough to harvest.

Cut the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth. Chives are a cut-and-come-again herb, so you can harvest them continuously throughout the growing season.

As our first frost approaches in late December, you can still harvest chives. Even if the tops die back, the bulbs will survive and regrow in the spring. Every 3 years, divide the clumps to keep them vigorous.

Here are three common problems you might encounter with chives in Southern California:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots near the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion family plants. The maggots then burrow into the bulbs and roots.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Beneficial nematodes can also help control onion fly larvae in the soil.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Rust fungi spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Soft, mushy bulbs and yellowing, wilting leaves. The plant may easily pull out of the soil.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly draining soil creates conditions where fungal pathogens thrive.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure good soil drainage by amending with compost or other organic matter. Avoid overwatering, especially during our winter-wet season. Plant chives in raised beds if your soil is heavy clay.

Southern California Specific Challenges: Our hot summers inland can stress chives, making them more susceptible to pests and diseases. Ensure they get adequate water, especially during heat waves, and consider providing some afternoon shade. Our winter-wet rainfall can also lead to bulb rot if drainage is poor, so make sure your soil is well-draining.

Chives are great companions for several plants in a Southern California garden. Carrots benefit because chives repel carrot root flies. Plant chives near tomatoes to deter aphids and spider mites.

Roses benefit from chives, which help to deter aphids and black spot. Grapes benefit from the pest-repelling properties of chives, helping to keep them healthy. Avoid planting chives near beans-green and peas, as they can inhibit their growth.