Collard Greens in Zone 9B — Florida

Collard greens are a Southern staple, and they thrive in our Florida climate, giving you that rich, slightly bitter flavor we all crave. Whether you're braising them low and slow with smoked ham hocks or adding them to a vibrant stir-fry, collards bring a unique heartiness to your cooking that's hard to beat, especially when you've grown them yourself.

Our Florida gardening calendar is different, I know, and we have our share of challenges with humidity and pests, but collards are surprisingly resilient. With our long, 344-day growing season, you can absolutely enjoy fresh, homegrown collard greens for much of the year if you plant in fall and harvest in winter.

Starting collard greens indoors in Florida is possible, but honestly, it's usually not necessary unless you're aiming for a very early spring harvest. If you decide to go this route, start your seeds from mid-December through early January, about four weeks before you plan to transplant them.

Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix. Keep them warm and provide plenty of light – a simple shop light works wonders. A little bottom watering keeps the seedlings happy. Remember, our spring is reversed, so you're trying to get a jump start on the warm weather.

Transplanting collard greens outdoors in Florida is best done from mid-January through mid-February. Before you move them outside permanently, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Space your transplants 18-24 inches apart in well-drained soil. Keep an eye on the weather; even though it's typically mild, we can sometimes get a cold snap that might stress young plants.

Direct sowing collard greens is a great option, and in Florida, you can do it from early January through early October. Prepare your soil by loosening it and adding some compost or well-rotted manure.

Sow seeds about ½ inch deep and keep the soil consistently moist until they germinate. Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart once they have a few true leaves. Direct sowing avoids transplant shock and can be easier than starting indoors.

Watering is crucial for healthy collard greens in Florida, especially with our alternating periods of heavy rain and dry spells. While we get a good amount of rainfall, you can't always count on it being consistent. Aim to keep the soil evenly moist, but not waterlogged.

During the cooler months, you might only need to water once or twice a week, providing about 1 inch of water each time. In the hotter months, especially during dry spells, you might need to water more frequently, possibly every other day. Stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil – if it feels dry, it's time to water.

Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the leaves, as this can encourage fungal diseases in our humid climate. Overwatering can lead to root rot, while underwatering will result in tough, bitter leaves. A layer of mulch around your plants helps retain moisture and suppress weeds, and is a must in our sandy soil.

You can expect your first collard greens harvest from late March through early January, about 75 days after planting. The best time to harvest is when the lower leaves are 10-12 inches long and a deep green color.

Harvest by cutting the outer leaves, leaving the top rosette intact so the plant can continue producing. Collard greens actually taste sweeter after a light frost, so don't be afraid to leave them in the garden as long as possible.

As our first frost approaches in late December, harvest any remaining large leaves. You can blanch and freeze them for later use, or use them immediately in your favorite recipes.

Here are some common problems you might encounter growing collard greens in Florida:

Cabbage Worms

• What it looks like: Smooth green caterpillars chewing irregular holes in leaves, leaving dark green droppings. You might also see white butterflies fluttering around.
• What causes it: These are the larvae of cabbage butterflies. They thrive in our warm climate and can have multiple generations per season.
• How to fix/prevent it: Bt spray is very effective and safe to use. Floating row covers prevent butterflies from laying eggs. You can also handpick the caterpillars or interplant with aromatic herbs like thyme and sage to deter them.

Aphids

• What it looks like: Clusters of tiny green, black, or white insects on stems and undersides of leaves. You might also notice a sticky honeydew residue and curled or distorted new growth.
• What causes it: These sap-sucking insects reproduce rapidly, especially in warm weather. Ants often farm them for their honeydew.
• How to fix/prevent it: A strong spray of water can knock them off. Encourage natural predators like ladybugs and lacewings. Use insecticidal soap for heavy infestations or neem oil for a systemic treatment. Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer, which attracts them.

Cabbage Loopers

• What it looks like: Similar to cabbage worms, these are light green caterpillars that move in a looping motion. They also chew holes in leaves.
• What causes it: These are the larvae of moths.
• How to fix/prevent it: Similar to cabbage worms, use Bt spray, handpick, or use floating row covers.

Downy Mildew

• What it looks like: Yellow patches on the tops of leaves with fuzzy gray-purple growth on the undersides. Leaves brown and die from the bottom up.
• What causes it: This is a fungal disease that spreads in cool, humid conditions via wind-carried spores.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves immediately and improve air circulation. Water at the base of the plants, never overhead. You can also use copper-based fungicides for prevention.

Florida Specific Challenges: Our hot, humid summers and wet-summer rainfall create the perfect environment for fungal diseases and pests. Make sure to provide good air circulation, water at the base of the plants, and monitor regularly for any signs of trouble.

Companion planting can really help your collard greens thrive here in Florida.

Good companions include onions and garlic, which deter pests like aphids and cabbage worms. Beets and potatoes are also good choices as they don't compete for the same nutrients in the soil. Dill attracts beneficial insects that prey on pests.

Avoid planting collard greens near strawberries or tomatoes. Strawberries are susceptible to some of the same fungal diseases as collards, and tomatoes can attract pests that will also bother your collards.