Echinacea in Zone 8B — Southeast

Echinacea, also known as coneflower, is a fantastic addition to any Southeast garden. Not only does it bring beauty with its daisy-like blooms in shades of purple, pink, and white, but it's also a medicinal herb that you can use to make tea. Plus, they attract pollinators like butterflies, adding life and vibrancy to your yard during our long summer.

We definitely have our challenges here in the Southeast with the humidity and those pesky Japanese beetles. But with our long growing season of around 255 days, you have plenty of opportunity to get Echinacea established and thriving. Proper timing and attention to airflow are key to success.

Starting Echinacea indoors is an option, especially if you want a head start on blooms. Sow seeds indoors in early to late January, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant. Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix and keep them in a warm spot.

Aim for soil temperatures around 70-75°F for best germination. A heat mat can really help with this. Water from the bottom to prevent damping off, which can be a problem in our humid climate. Provide plenty of light, either with a grow light or a very sunny window. Remember, our springs here in the Southeast can be a little unpredictable.

Transplant your Echinacea seedlings outdoors in early to late March, after the danger of frost has passed. It's crucial to harden off your seedlings for about a week before transplanting. Gradually expose them to outdoor conditions, starting with an hour or two each day.

Space your plants 18-24 inches apart to allow for good air circulation; this is important to combat fungal diseases in our humid climate. Keep an eye out for late frosts, and be prepared to cover your plants if necessary. Echinacea is a perennial, but seeds need cold stratification. Buying starts from a local nursery might be easier for some gardeners.

Direct sowing Echinacea is also a viable option, and it can be a bit easier than starting indoors. Sow seeds directly into the garden from early March through early August. The earlier you plant, the better chance the seeds have to experience cold stratification.

Make sure the soil is well-drained and the soil temperature is consistently above 60°F. Plant seeds about 1/4 inch deep and keep the soil moist until they germinate. Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart once they've developed a few sets of true leaves. Direct sowing works best when you can provide consistent moisture.

Echinacea is remarkably drought-tolerant once established, making it a great choice for Southeast gardens. Don't be tempted to overwater it. Our wet summers and humid conditions can quickly lead to problems if the soil stays too wet.

During the first few weeks after planting, water regularly to help the plants establish a strong root system. After that, let the soil dry out between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to stick your finger about two inches into the soil; if it's dry, it's time to water. Established plants usually only need about an inch of water per week, including rainfall.

Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid climate. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and stunted growth. Overwatering can cause yellowing leaves and root rot. A layer of mulch around the base of the plants can help retain moisture and suppress weeds, but be careful not to pile it up against the stems, as this can promote rot.

Deadheading Echinacea is a simple way to encourage more blooms throughout the season. Simply snip off the spent flower heads just below the flower. Do this regularly from early June through late November to keep your plants producing new flowers.

If you want to attract birds to your garden, leave some of the seed heads on the plants. Goldfinches especially love Echinacea seeds. In late winter, after the foliage has died back, cut the plants down to the ground to make way for new growth in the spring.

You can expect your first Echinacea harvest from early June through late November, about 90 days after planting. The flowers are ready to harvest when they are fully open and the petals are just beginning to droop slightly. You can also tell by the stiff cone in the center of the flower.

To harvest, simply cut the flower stems near the base of the plant, leaving plenty of foliage for continued growth. You can harvest the petals for tea. Just gently pull them off the flower head. Leaving some seed heads on the plants not only provides food for birds but also encourages self-seeding. As the first frost approaches around mid- November, you can harvest any remaining flowers and seed heads to dry for later use.

Here are some common problems you might encounter growing Echinacea in the Southeast:

Aster Yellows

• What it looks like: Distorted, greenish flowers, often with tufts of growth in the center. The plant may also be stunted and have yellowed leaves.
• What causes it: A phytoplasma (bacteria-like organism) transmitted by leafhoppers. It's more prevalent in warmer climates and can spread quickly.
• How to fix/prevent it: Unfortunately, there's no cure for aster yellows. Remove and destroy infected plants immediately to prevent the spread. Control leafhopper populations with insecticidal soap or neem oil.

Powdery Mildew

• What it looks like: White or grayish powdery coating on leaves, stems, and sometimes fruit. Leaves curl, yellow, and die. It reduces plant vigor.
• What causes it: Various fungi that thrive in warm days, cool nights, and moderate humidity. Dry leaf surfaces actually favor it (unlike most fungi). This is a common problem in our humid Southeast summers.
• How to fix/prevent it: Improve air circulation through spacing and pruning. Remove affected leaves. Neem oil or potassium bicarbonate sprays help. Milk spray (1 part milk to 9 parts water) is surprisingly effective. Plant resistant varieties.

Japanese Beetles

• What it looks like: These metallic green beetles skeletonize leaves, leaving behind a lacy appearance. They often congregate in large numbers and can quickly decimate a plant.
• What causes it: Japanese beetles are attracted to stressed plants and are particularly fond of Echinacea. They are a common pest in the Southeast.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick beetles in the early morning when they are less active. Insecticidal soap or neem oil can also be effective. Attract beneficial nematodes to the soil, as they feed on the beetle larvae.

Southeast Specific Challenges: Our hot and humid summers, combined with frequent afternoon thunderstorms, create ideal conditions for fungal diseases like powdery mildew. Good air circulation is crucial. Also, be vigilant about monitoring for Japanese beetles, as they can quickly strip your Echinacea plants bare. Selecting disease-resistant varieties can also make a big difference.

Echinacea plays well with others in the garden, especially when you consider companion planting.

Good companions include tomatoes and peppers. The strong scent of these plants can help deter some pests that might bother Echinacea. Herbs like rosemary and thyme are also great companions, as they attract beneficial insects that prey on garden pests.

Avoid planting Echinacea near plants that are susceptible to the same diseases, like powdery mildew. This can increase the risk of spreading the disease to your Echinacea.