Eggplant in Zone 7B — Texas

Eggplant thrives in the Texas heat and rewards you with beautiful, glossy fruit perfect for grilling, frying, or adding to your favorite Mediterranean dishes. Few things beat the satisfaction of harvesting your own eggplant, knowing exactly where it came from and how it was grown.

Texas weather can be unpredictable, but with a little planning and attention to timing, you can successfully grow eggplant here. Our long 255-day growing season gives you a great head start.

Starting eggplant indoors is key to getting a head start here in Texas. Eggplant needs a long growing season, and starting seeds indoors gives them the jump they need to produce before the worst of the Texas heat hits. You'll want to start your seeds indoors from late January through mid February, giving them about 8 weeks before transplanting.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, and keep them in a warm location, around 80-85°F, until they germinate. A heat mat can be a real help here. Once they sprout, move them under grow lights to ensure strong, healthy seedlings. Don't forget to water from the bottom to encourage strong root growth and avoid damping-off.

Given our early warm spells, it's tempting to rush things, but stick to the schedule. Eggplant hates cold soil!

Transplanting eggplant outdoors should happen from late March through late April, after the danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up. Before you transplant, you'll need to harden off your seedlings. This means gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Space your eggplant plants 18-24 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Keep an eye on the weather forecast; late freezes can happen, even in Texas. If a cold snap is predicted, be prepared to cover your plants.

Eggplant needs consistent moisture, especially in the Texas heat. Aim to water deeply and regularly, providing about 1-2 inches of water per week, depending on rainfall. Use the finger test: stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil; if it feels dry, it's time to water.

During the hottest part of the summer, you may need to water every day. Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the leaves, which can encourage fungal diseases, especially with our variable humidity. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and dry soil, while overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot.

Mulching around your eggplant plants with a layer of organic mulch, like straw or shredded leaves, helps retain moisture in the soil and suppress weeds. This is extra important in our climate, as it helps to keep the soil cool and moist during the extreme heat.

Eggplant branches can be brittle and easily broken, especially when loaded with fruit. A simple stake is often the best support.

Install a sturdy stake near each plant at planting time, driving it deep enough into the ground to provide good support. As the plant grows, gently tie the main stem to the stake with soft twine or plant ties. This will help keep the plant upright and prevent the fruit from touching the ground, which can lead to rot.

Eggplant benefits from minimal pruning. The goal is to improve airflow and encourage larger fruit.

Remove any suckers (small shoots) that grow below the first fork in the stem. These suckers will only divert energy from the main plant. Throughout the season, you can also remove any yellowing or damaged leaves. As the season progresses, you might want to limit the number of fruits per plant to 5-6 to encourage larger fruit size. Once our first frost approaches around mid- November, remove any remaining small fruit to encourage the plant to put its energy into ripening the larger ones before it gets too cold.

Here in Texas, you can expect your first eggplant harvest from early June through late July, about 70 days after transplanting. The best time to harvest eggplant is when the skin is glossy and smooth, with a slight give when you gently press it. If the skin is dull, the eggplant is likely overripe and will be seedy.

Use a sharp knife or pruners to cut the eggplant from the plant, leaving a small piece of the stem attached. Avoid pulling the fruit, as this can damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production, so check your plants every few days.

As the first frost approaches in mid- November, harvest any remaining eggplant, even if they are on the smaller side.

Eggplant can face a few challenges here in Texas. Here's how to tackle them:

Flea Beetles

• What it looks like: Tiny round holes (shot-hole pattern) in leaves, especially on young seedlings. You'll see small, dark beetles that jump when disturbed.
• What causes it: These small jumping beetles feed on the leaves, causing damage that can stunt growth. They are most damaging to small, young plants.
• How to fix/prevent it: Row covers protect seedlings during the vulnerable stage. Delay planting until plants are larger. Kaolin clay coating can deter them. Neem oil spray can also help. Try interplanting with basil or catnip. Healthy, vigorous plants often outgrow the damage.

Colorado Potato Beetle

• What it looks like: Yellow and black striped beetles and reddish-orange larvae feeding on leaves. Can quickly defoliate plants.
• What causes it: These beetles are voracious eaters and can quickly decimate eggplant leaves. They are especially problematic in areas with a history of potato or tomato crops.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick beetles and larvae and drop them in soapy water. Encourage beneficial insects like ladybugs. Use row covers early in the season. Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) can be effective against young larvae.

Verticillium Wilt

• What it looks like: Lower leaves yellow, wilt, and die, progressing upward. One side of the plant may be affected first. You might see brown streaks in the stem cross-section.
• What causes it: This is a soil-borne fungus that can persist for years. Cooler soil temperatures favor it, so it can be a problem during our unpredictable spring weather.
• How to fix/prevent it: Unfortunately, there's no cure. Remove infected plants immediately. Rotate with non-susceptible crops like corn or grains. Solarize the soil to kill the fungus. Plant resistant varieties (look for 'V' on labels).

Blossom Drop

• What it looks like: Flowers fall off without setting fruit. Small fruit yellows and drops. The plant looks healthy otherwise but produces no fruit.
• What causes it: Temperature stress is the main culprit. Eggplant doesn't set fruit well when nights stay above 75°F or days exceed 95°F. Low humidity, excess nitrogen, or poor pollination can also contribute.
• How to fix/prevent it: Be patient – fruit set usually resumes when temperatures moderate. Provide afternoon shade during extreme heat. Keep plants well-watered. Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen. You can try hand-pollination to improve fruit set.

Texas Specific Challenges: The extreme heat, variable humidity, and unpredictable rainfall in Texas can make growing eggplant challenging. High temperatures can cause blossom drop, while inconsistent watering can lead to bitter fruit. Be vigilant about monitoring your plants and adjusting your care as needed to ensure a successful harvest. And watch out for those fire ants!

Good companion plants for eggplant include beans, peppers, spinach, and tomatoes. Green beans fix nitrogen in the soil, which benefits eggplant. Peppers and tomatoes are in the same family and enjoy similar growing conditions. Spinach provides ground cover, helping to retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Avoid planting eggplant near fennel, as it inhibits the growth of many plants, including eggplant. Keeping these companions in mind can help you create a thriving garden ecosystem, even in the challenging Texas climate.