Anaheim Pepper in Zone 6B — Mountain West

Anaheim peppers are a fantastic choice for the Mountain West garden. Their mild heat and versatility make them perfect for everything from roasting and stuffing to adding a subtle kick to salsas and stews. Plus, they thrive in our intense sunlight, and the cool nights even in summer enhance their flavor.

Our high altitude and short growing season (around 163 days) present challenges. But with careful planning and starting your plants indoors, you'll be harvesting plenty of Anaheim peppers before the first frost hits.

Start your Anaheim pepper seeds indoors in early to late March, about 8 weeks before you plan to transplant them outside. Use seed trays and a good seed-starting mix. Keep the soil consistently moist, but not soggy; bottom watering is a great way to achieve this.

Provide warmth and plenty of light. A heat mat can help with germination, and grow lights are essential since our spring weather can be unpredictable and late. Remember, we often get snow even in April, so don't rush things!

Transplant your Anaheim pepper seedlings outdoors from early May through early June, after the danger of frost has passed. Be sure to harden them off for about a week beforehand by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions. This is crucial to prevent transplant shock from the intense sun.

Space your plants 18-24 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Even in May, we can still get chilly nights, so keep an eye on the forecast and be prepared to cover them if necessary.

Anaheim peppers need moderate watering, especially considering our dry climate. Aim to keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Developed for hot, dry climates, they handle heat well, but still need consistent moisture.

During the peak of summer, check the soil moisture regularly. Stick your finger about 2 inches deep; if it feels dry, it's time to water. Typically, you'll want to give them about 1-2 inches of water per week, depending on rainfall and temperatures. Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can help prevent disease in our low-humidity environment.

Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and slow growth. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. Mulching around your plants with straw or wood chips helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, which is especially beneficial in our alkaline soil.

Anaheim pepper plants can get quite tall, especially when loaded with fruit, so providing support is a good idea. Staking is the easiest method.

Install stakes at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later. Simply drive a sturdy stake into the ground near each plant and gently tie the main stem to the stake with soft twine or plant ties. As the plant grows, continue to tie it to the stake as needed. This will prevent the branches from breaking under the weight of the peppers, especially during our occasional summer hail storms.

Pinching off the early flowers on your Anaheim pepper plants encourages them to focus on vegetative growth, resulting in stronger plants and a larger overall yield.

Remove any flowers that appear early in the season, typically before the plant reaches about a foot tall. As the season progresses, standard pepper maintenance applies: remove any dead or yellowing leaves. Before the first frost in early October, consider removing any small, immature peppers to encourage the plant to put its energy into ripening the larger ones.

You can expect your first harvest of Anaheim peppers from late July through early September, about 75 days after transplanting.

Harvest when the peppers are 6-8 inches long and green for a milder flavor. If you prefer more heat, wait until they turn red. The peppers should have thick walls and a slightly waxy sheen. To harvest, use pruning shears or a sharp knife to cut the pepper from the plant, leaving a short stem attached. Regular harvesting encourages continued production.

As the first frost approaches in early October, harvest any remaining peppers, even if they are still green. They will ripen indoors if stored in a warm, bright location.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with Anaheim peppers in the Mountain West:

Blossom End Rot

• What it looks like: Sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom of the pepper.
• What causes it: Calcium deficiency due to inconsistent watering. In our dry climate, it's easy for the soil to dry out quickly, leading to this problem.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently, especially during dry spells. Mulch heavily to maintain even soil moisture. Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, and remove any affected fruit.

Sunscald

• What it looks like: White, papery patches on the fruit exposed to direct sun.
• What causes it: Intense, direct sunlight, which is a major factor at our high altitude.
• How to fix/prevent it: Don't over-prune the foliage, as the leaves provide natural shade. Use shade cloth during periods of extreme heat and intense sun. If fruit is already exposed, drape a small piece of row cover over it.

Aphids

• What it looks like: Clusters of tiny insects (green, black, or white) on stems and leaf undersides. Sticky honeydew residue.
• What causes it: Rapidly reproducing sap-sucking insects that thrive in warm weather.
• How to fix/prevent it: Knock them off with a strong water spray. Encourage beneficial insects like ladybugs. Use insecticidal soap or neem oil for heavy infestations.

Mountain West Specific Challenges: Our intense sun and low humidity can exacerbate problems like sunscald and blossom end rot. Consistent watering and providing adequate shade are key to success with Anaheim peppers in our region.

Good companions for Anaheim peppers include tomatoes, basil, carrots, and onions. Tomatoes provide shade and support. Basil repels pests and improves flavor. Carrots loosen the soil and deter nematodes. Onions deter pests like aphids.

Avoid planting Anaheim peppers near fennel or brassicas (like cabbage and broccoli). Fennel inhibits the growth of many plants. Brassicas compete for nutrients and can attract pests that also affect peppers.