Anaheim Pepper in Zone 7A — Mountain West

Anaheim peppers are a fantastic choice for high altitude gardening in our Mountain West climate. They offer a mild heat and a satisfying crunch when green, and a sweeter, more intense flavor when red. Plus, their thick walls make them perfect for roasting, stuffing, or adding to your favorite salsas. The intense sunlight here really brings out their flavor, and the cool nights even in summer help them develop a satisfying crispness.

Sure, our short season and alkaline soil can present challenges, but with a little planning, you can absolutely enjoy a bountiful harvest of Anaheim peppers. Our growing season hovers around 173 days, so starting indoors is key to getting a head start.

Starting your Anaheim pepper seeds indoors is the best way to get a jump on our short growing season. Begin in early to late March, giving the seedlings about 8 weeks to mature before transplanting. You'll want to use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix.

Keep the soil consistently moist, but not soggy. Bottom watering is a great technique to avoid damping off. A heat mat will help with germination, and once the seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light with a grow light or a sunny windowsill. Remember, our spring weather can be unpredictable, so keeping them indoors for a good head start is vital.

Transplant your Anaheim peppers outdoors in early May through early June, after the last threat of frost has passed. It's crucial to harden them off for about a week before planting. Gradually expose them to outdoor conditions, starting with an hour or two of shade and increasing the time each day.

Space the plants 18-24 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Be mindful of late spring hail storms, which can wreak havoc on young plants. Consider using row covers for extra protection during this vulnerable time.

Anaheim peppers need consistent moisture, especially in our dry Mountain West climate, but they don't like to be waterlogged. A good rule of thumb is to water deeply once or twice a week, providing about 1-2 inches of water each time. Use the finger test: stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water.

Because we have low humidity, watering at the base of the plant is ideal to avoid foliar diseases. Avoid overhead watering, especially in the evening.

Pay attention to the leaves. Drooping leaves can indicate both underwatering and overwatering. Yellowing leaves can also suggest overwatering. Mulching around the base of the plants with straw or wood chips will help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.

Anaheim pepper plants can get quite tall and laden with fruit, so providing support is a good idea, though optional. The upright growth habit means the plant can topple when branches get heavy with peppers.

Staking is a simple and effective method. Insert a sturdy stake next to each plant at planting time and gently tie the main stem to the stake as it grows. Tomato cages also work well, providing all-around support.

Pinching off the early flowers on your Anaheim pepper plants can encourage them to focus their energy on vegetative growth, resulting in a stronger plant and a larger overall yield. Do this when the plants are still young, before they start producing a lot of flowers.

Throughout the season, remove any yellowing or dead leaves to improve air circulation. As the end of the season approaches (early October in the Mountain), you can pinch off any new flowers to encourage the plant to ripen the existing peppers before the first frost.

You can expect your first harvest of Anaheim peppers from mid July through early September, about 75 days after transplanting. You can harvest them green when they are about 6-8 inches long for a milder flavor, or wait until they turn red for a sweeter, spicier taste. The peppers should have thick walls and a firm feel.

To harvest, use sharp pruning shears or a knife to cut the stem just above the pepper. Be careful not to damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continuous production.

As the first frost approaches in early October, harvest any remaining green peppers. They will ripen indoors if you place them in a paper bag with an apple or banana.

Here are some common issues you might encounter with Anaheim peppers in our Mountain West gardens:

Blossom End Rot

• What it looks like: A sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom of the pepper. It often affects the first fruits of the season.
• What causes it: Inconsistent watering leads to calcium deficiency. The dry spells we often experience followed by periods of heavy watering can cause this.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently, especially during fruit development. Mulch heavily to maintain even soil moisture. Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen. Remove affected fruit.

Sunscald

• What it looks like: White, papery patches on fruit exposed to direct sun. Affected areas may blister and become susceptible to rot.
• What causes it: Intense, direct sunlight on fruit, especially after pruning or leaf loss. Our high altitude and intense UV radiation make this a real concern.
• How to fix/prevent it: Avoid over-pruning foliage. Use shade cloth during the hottest part of the day. If fruit is already exposed, drape a small piece of row cover over it.

Aphids

• What it looks like: Clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects (green, black, or white) on stems and leaf undersides. Sticky honeydew residue. Curled or distorted new growth.
• What causes it: Rapid-reproducing sap-sucking insects that thrive in warm weather. They're attracted to stressed plants.
• How to fix/prevent it: Strong water spray to knock them off. Encourage ladybugs and lacewings. Insecticidal soap for heavy infestations. Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer.

Mountain West Specific Challenges: Our moderate-at-altitude heat, combined with low humidity and dry rainfall, means you'll need to be vigilant about watering and providing adequate shade to prevent blossom end rot and sunscald. The alkaline soil can also impact nutrient uptake, so amend your soil with compost regularly.

Companion planting can be beneficial for Anaheim peppers in the Mountain West. Tomatoes make great companions because they share similar growing requirements and can provide some shade. Basil is another good choice, as it repels pests like aphids and whiteflies. Carrots help improve the soil structure and attract beneficial insects, while onions can deter certain pests.

Avoid planting fennel near your peppers, as it inhibits their growth. Brassicas like cabbage and broccoli can also compete for nutrients and attract pests that can harm your pepper plants.