Anaheim Pepper in Zone 8B — Pacific Northwest

Anaheim peppers are a fantastic addition to any Pacific Northwest garden. Their mild heat and thick walls make them perfect for roasting, stuffing, or adding a subtle kick to your favorite dishes. Plus, the cool nights we get here in the PNW actually enhance their flavor!

While we may not have the long, scorching summers of the Southwest, don't let that deter you. Our 210-day growing season is plenty long enough to bring Anaheim peppers to a bountiful harvest, especially if you give them a head start indoors. Timing is key, and with a little planning, you'll be enjoying homegrown Anaheim peppers in no time.

Starting Anaheim peppers indoors is the way to go in our climate. Begin in mid-February through early March, about 8 weeks before you plan to transplant them outside. This gives them ample time to mature before our often-overcast spring days give way to our mild summer.

Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix. Keep the soil consistently moist (but not soggy!) by bottom watering – set the tray in a shallow dish of water and let the soil soak it up from the bottom. Place the trays in a warm spot and provide supplemental light, such as a grow light, to ensure strong, healthy seedlings.

Transplant your Anaheim pepper seedlings outdoors mid-April through mid-May, once the soil has warmed up a bit. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the sun and wind, preventing transplant shock.

Plant them 18-24 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-draining soil. Keep an eye on the weather forecast – a late frost can still happen in April, so be prepared to cover your seedlings if necessary.

Anaheim peppers need consistent moisture, but in our mild, dry-summer climate, overwatering is a bigger risk than underwatering. During our wet springs, you may not need to water at all unless we have an unusually dry spell. Let the rain do its job!

Once the dry summer months arrive, check the soil moisture regularly. Stick your finger about 2 inches deep – if it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week, watering at the base of the plant to avoid getting the foliage wet and potentially encouraging fungal diseases.

Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and stunted growth. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. A good layer of mulch around the base of the plants helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, which is especially helpful during our cooler spring and fall.

Anaheim peppers can get quite tall and produce a lot of fruit, so providing support is a good idea, especially in windy areas. The upright growth habit makes them perfect for staking or using tomato cages.

Install the supports at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later. Simply drive a sturdy stake into the ground a few inches from the plant and gently tie the main stem to the stake with soft twine. Tomato cages also work well, providing support as the plant grows.

Pinching off the early flowers on your Anaheim pepper plants encourages them to focus on vegetative growth, resulting in stronger, more productive plants later in the season. Do this early in the season, before the plants set a lot of fruit.

Otherwise, minimal pruning is needed. Standard pepper maintenance, like removing any yellowing or dead leaves, will keep your plants healthy. As the first frost approaches in early November, you can prune back the plants to encourage any remaining peppers to ripen.

You can expect your first harvest of Anaheim peppers from early July through late August, about 75 days after transplanting. Harvest green at 6-8 inches for a milder flavor, or wait until they turn red for more heat. The peppers should have thick walls and feel firm to the touch.

To harvest, use pruning shears or a sharp knife to cut the pepper from the plant, leaving a small piece of stem attached. Regular harvesting encourages continued production throughout the season.

As the first frost approaches, harvest any remaining peppers, even if they're still green. They will ripen indoors if you place them in a paper bag with a ripe apple or banana.

Here are some common issues you might encounter with Anaheim peppers in our region:

Blossom End Rot

• What it looks like: A sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom of the pepper.
• What causes it: Inconsistent watering leads to calcium deficiency. Our wet springs followed by dry summers can create this fluctuation.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently, especially during dry spells. Mulch heavily to maintain even soil moisture. Remove affected fruit.

Sunscald

• What it looks like: White, papery patches on the fruit, usually on the side facing the sun.
• What causes it: Intense, direct sunlight, especially after pruning or leaf loss. The mild heat and dry-summer humidity of our region can still lead to sunscald if plants aren't properly shaded.
• How to fix/prevent it: Avoid over-pruning. Use shade cloth during periods of intense sun. If a pepper is already affected, drape a small piece of row cover over it.

Aphids

• What it looks like: Clusters of tiny insects (green, black, or white) on stems and leaf undersides. Sticky honeydew residue.
• What causes it: Rapid reproduction of these sap-sucking insects, especially during warm spells.
• How to fix/prevent it: Knock them off with a strong spray of water. Encourage beneficial insects like ladybugs. Use insecticidal soap or neem oil for heavy infestations.

Pacific Northwest Specific Challenges: Late blight can be a concern for peppers in the PNW, especially during wet summers. Ensure good air circulation around your plants and avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk. Cool soil in spring can stunt growth, so be patient and wait for the soil to warm up before transplanting. While our summers are mild, sunscald can still occur, so provide adequate shade during heat waves.

Companion planting can help your Anaheim peppers thrive in the Pacific Northwest garden.

Tomatoes and peppers are great companions because they have similar needs (full sun and well-drained soil). Basil repels many common pepper pests, including aphids, and is said to improve the flavor of peppers. Carrots loosen the soil, improving drainage, and onions deter pests.

Avoid planting fennel near peppers, as it inhibits their growth. Brassicas like cabbage and broccoli also compete for nutrients and can attract pests that also affect peppers.