Better Boy Tomato in Zone 5A — Northeast

Better Boy Tomato is a classic for a reason, and it's a rewarding choice for Northeast gardens. Its fantastic flavor makes it perfect for slicing, sauces, and canning, and its reliable yields mean you'll actually get a worthwhile harvest before the cool nights of late summer set in. There's nothing quite like that first sun-ripened tomato sandwich, and Better Boy lets you make the most of our short growing season.

We all know the challenges of gardening in the Northeast. That last frost can sneak in late, and before you know it, you're racing against the clock to get everything harvested before the first frost of fall. But with careful timing, especially for a 72-day variety like Better Boy, you can absolutely enjoy a bumper crop within our approximately 153-day growing season.

Starting Better Boy Tomato seeds indoors is the way to go here in the Northeast. You'll want to begin late March through mid April – about six weeks before you plan to transplant them outside. This gives them a head start against our sometimes-stubborn spring weather.

Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix. Keep them warm (around 70-75°F) and provide plenty of light, either from a sunny south-facing window or, even better, a grow light. A little tip I learned: bottom watering helps prevent damping-off. Just set the tray in a shallow container of water and let the soil soak it up from the bottom.

Remember, our springs here in the Northeast are known for being late, so don't rush things. It's better to wait for consistently warmer weather than to risk an early transplant.

Transplanting Better Boy Tomato seedlings outdoors should happen mid May through mid June, once the danger of frost has passed. Before you plant them in the ground, you absolutely need to harden them off. This means gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. Start with an hour or two of shade, and slowly increase the time and sun exposure each day.

When transplanting, space them 24-36 inches apart. Our weather here can be unpredictable even in late spring, so keep an eye on the forecast. If a late frost threatens, be ready to cover your young plants with blankets or row covers.

Better Boy Tomatoes need consistent watering, especially here in the Northeast where we can have periods of dry spells even with our even rainfall. Aim to keep the soil consistently moist, but not waterlogged. The key to preventing blossom end rot and cracking is to avoid those feast-or-famine cycles.

A good rule of thumb is the "finger test": stick your finger into the soil about two inches deep. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Typically, this means giving your plants about 1-2 inches of water per week, depending on rainfall. With our moderate-to-humid summers, it's best to water at the base of the plant to avoid getting the foliage wet, which can encourage fungal diseases.

Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and dry soil. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and potentially root rot. A layer of mulch around your tomato plants is also a great idea. It helps retain moisture, suppresses weeds, and keeps the soil temperature more consistent – all important for happy tomatoes in our climate.

Because Better Boy Tomato is an indeterminate variety, it's going to need some serious support as it grows. These vines get vigorous, and those tomatoes get heavy. If you don't provide support, you'll end up with a tangled mess on the ground.

Cages or sturdy stakes work best. I personally prefer cages because they're easy to install and the plant can grow naturally within them. Install your support system at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later on. As the plant grows, gently guide the vines into the cage or tie them to the stake with soft twine.

Pruning Better Boy Tomatoes can improve airflow and fruit size. The main thing you'll want to prune are the suckers – those little shoots that grow in the "V" between the main stem and a branch. Removing them directs the plant's energy into fruit production.

I usually prune suckers early in the morning when the plant is dry. Just pinch them off with your fingers when they're small. You can also remove the lower leaves as the plant grows, especially if they're touching the ground. With our shorter season, a good strategy as we approach the first frost around early October is to pinch off the top of the plant. This encourages the plant to ripen the existing tomatoes rather than produce new ones.

You can expect your first Better Boy Tomato harvest late July through mid September, depending on when you transplanted. A ripe tomato will be a deep red color and will have a slight give when you gently squeeze it. The beauty of Better Boy is that it is known for strong disease resistance, so you will have reliable harvests.

To harvest, simply twist the tomato gently until it separates from the vine. Be careful not to damage the plant. Keep picking those tomatoes as they ripen to encourage continuous production.

As we approach the first frost in early October, you'll want to harvest any remaining green tomatoes. They can be ripened indoors by placing them in a paper bag with an apple or banana. The ethylene gas these fruits produce will help the tomatoes turn red.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with Better Boy Tomatoes in the Northeast:

Blossom End Rot

• What it looks like: A sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom of the tomato.
• What causes it: Inconsistent watering leading to calcium deficiency. Our weather here can fluctuate, causing periods of drought followed by heavy rain.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently, especially during dry spells. Mulch heavily. Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen. Remove affected fruit.

Cracking

• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin, either concentric circles around the stem or radial lines radiating from the stem.
• What causes it: Heavy watering or rain after a dry spell. Common after a summer thunderstorm.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently. Mulch to maintain even moisture. Harvest promptly when ripe.

Hornworms

• What it looks like: Large sections of leaves stripped overnight. You might also see large green caterpillars with white stripes and dark droppings on the leaves.
• What causes it: These are the larvae of hawk moths.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick them (they're easy to spot). Bt spray is effective and organic.

Early Blight

• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings on the lower leaves, spreading upward.
• What causes it: A fungal disease that thrives in warm, humid conditions. Our moderate-to-humid summers can be favorable for this disease.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves. Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base. Improve air circulation. Copper fungicide can slow the spread.

Northeast Specific Challenges: Our moderate heat, moderate-to-humid humidity, and even rainfall can create conditions favorable for fungal diseases like early blight, so be vigilant about watering practices and air circulation.

Companion planting can be really helpful for Better Boy Tomatoes.

Good companions:

• Basil: Improves flavor and repels pests.
• Carrots: Loosen the soil and don't compete for nutrients.
• Parsley: Attracts beneficial insects.
• French Marigolds: Repel nematodes and other soil pests.

Bad companions:

• Brassicas (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower): Can inhibit tomato growth.
• Fennel: Inhibits growth of many plants.
• Corn: Can attract tomato pests like the tomato hornworm.