Better Boy Tomato in Zone 8B — Southeast

Better Boy Tomato is a classic for a reason, and it thrives in our long Southeast summers. The flavor is that perfect balance of sweet and tangy, making it ideal for everything from BLTs to canning. Plus, the satisfaction of harvesting those big, juicy fruits after a long, hot summer is hard to beat.

We all know the challenges of gardening in the Southeast: the hot and humid weather, the clay soil, and the constant threat of fungal diseases. But with a little planning and attention to timing, you can absolutely grow beautiful Better Boy Tomatoes. Our 255-day growing season gives you plenty of time to get a great harvest.

Starting Better Boy Tomato seeds indoors in early to late February gives them a head start before our moderate spring gets fully underway. Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix. Keep them warm – around 70-75°F – using a heat mat if needed.

Provide plenty of light with grow lights positioned a few inches above the seedlings. A simple shop light works, too. Be sure to water from the bottom by setting the tray in a shallow pan of water for a few minutes; this encourages strong root growth and prevents damping-off.

Transplant your Better Boy Tomato seedlings outdoors in late March through late April, after the last expected frost. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. Start with a few hours of shade and increase the time and sun exposure each day.

Space the plants 24-36 inches apart in well-drained soil. Be mindful of those unexpected late-season cool snaps we sometimes get in the Southeast during this period. A frost blanket can be a lifesaver.

Better Boy Tomatoes need consistent watering, especially during our hot and humid summers. They aren't drought-tolerant, and inconsistent moisture can lead to problems like blossom end rot and cracking. Aim to water deeply and regularly.

During the warmer months, check the soil moisture with the "finger test": stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Typically, this means providing about 1-2 inches of water per week, either through rainfall or irrigation. In our humid climate, it's best to water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases.

Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and dry soil. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. A good layer of mulch, like pine straw or shredded bark, helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, which is crucial in the Southeast.

Better Boy Tomatoes are indeterminate, meaning they'll keep growing and producing fruit throughout the season. These vigorous vines need strong support to handle the weight of all those tomatoes. Cages or stakes are both good options.

Install your chosen support at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later. For cages, choose sturdy ones that are at least 5 feet tall. If using stakes, drive them deep into the ground and tie the main stem to the stake every foot or so as the plant grows.

Pruning Better Boy Tomatoes helps improve air circulation and fruit size. The standard approach is to remove the suckers that grow in the "armpit" between the main stem and the branches. These suckers will develop into additional stems that produce foliage but often at the expense of fruit production.

Prune suckers early in the morning on a dry day to reduce the risk of disease. In the Southeast, we can usually get away with less pruning than in cooler climates, since our disease-resistant hybrids are more forgiving. As the first frost approaches around mid- November, you can top the plant to encourage the remaining green tomatoes to ripen.

You can expect your first Better Boy Tomato harvest from early June through late July, about 72 days after transplanting. The tomatoes are ready to pick when they're a deep red color and have a slight give when gently squeezed.

To harvest, simply twist the tomato off the vine, leaving the stem attached. Regular harvesting encourages the plant to keep producing. As the end of the season nears and the first frost threatens in mid- November, harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen. They'll ripen best in a single layer, out of direct sunlight.

Better Boy Tomatoes, like all tomatoes, can run into problems. Here are some common ones we see in the Southeast:

Blossom End Rot

• What it looks like: A sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom (blossom end) of the fruit.
• What causes it: Calcium deficiency due to inconsistent watering. Common during our fluctuating spring weather.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently, especially during dry spells. Mulch heavily to maintain even soil moisture. Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen. Remove affected fruit.

Cracking

• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin, either concentric circles around the stem or radial lines radiating from the stem.
• What causes it: Heavy watering or rain after a dry spell. The fruit expands too quickly.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently to avoid the dry/wet cycle. Mulch to maintain even moisture. Harvest ripe tomatoes promptly.

Hornworms

• What it looks like: Large sections of leaves stripped overnight. You'll find big green caterpillars with white stripes and dark droppings.
• What causes it: Hawk moth larvae that feed voraciously.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick them (they're easy to spot once you know what you're looking for). Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray is effective and organic.

Early Blight

• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings on lower leaves, spreading upward. Leaves yellow and drop.
• What causes it: Fungal disease that thrives in our warm, humid conditions.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves. Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base. Improve air circulation through spacing and pruning. Copper fungicide can slow the spread.

Southeast Specific Challenges: The hot heat, humid humidity, and wet-summer rainfall in the Southeast create a perfect storm for fungal diseases like early blight. Consistent watering is key to preventing blossom end rot and cracking, but it can be a balancing act in our climate. Be vigilant about monitoring your plants and taking action quickly when problems arise.

Companion planting can help your Better Boy Tomatoes thrive. Basil is a classic companion because it repels pests like tomato hornworms and whiteflies. Carrots improve the soil around tomatoes and deter root-knot nematodes. Parsley attracts beneficial insects. French marigolds deter nematodes and other soil pests.

Avoid planting brassicas (like cabbage and broccoli) near tomatoes, as they can stunt tomato growth. Fennel inhibits the growth of many plants, including tomatoes. Corn can attract pests that also affect tomatoes.