Better Boy Tomato in Zone 9B — Southern California

Better Boy Tomato is a winner here in Southern California because it delivers that classic, juicy tomato flavor we crave, perfect for everything from sandwiches to sauces. Plus, its disease resistance makes it a reliable producer, giving you a satisfying harvest even with our sometimes unpredictable weather.

Sure, SoCal throws some curveballs with drought, heat waves, and occasional Santa Ana winds. But with a little planning and attention to watering, you can absolutely grow fantastic Better Boys. Our long, 334-day growing season gives you plenty of time to get it right.

Starting your Better Boy Tomato seeds indoors from late December through mid January gives them a head start before our early spring kicks in. Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix. Keep them warm (around 70-75°F) using a heat mat if needed, and provide plenty of light with a grow light or a sunny windowsill.

To keep seedlings happy, water from the bottom by placing the tray in a shallow dish of water until the top of the soil is moist. This helps prevent damping-off disease. With our very-early spring character here, starting indoors is the best way to get those tomatoes going!

Transplant your Better Boy Tomato seedlings outdoors from early February through early March, after the last threat of frost has passed. Before planting them in the ground, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the sun and wind.

Plant seedlings 24-36 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-draining soil. Keep an eye on the weather forecast, as we can still get some surprising cold snaps or late rains during this time.

Better Boy Tomatoes need consistent watering, especially in our semi-arid climate, to produce those big, juicy, crack-free fruits. While this variety is disease-resistant, inconsistent watering can still lead to problems. During the cooler months, when we get most of our rainfall, you might only need to supplement with watering once or twice a week, depending on how much rain we get.

Once the weather starts heating up, you'll need to water more frequently, potentially every day or every other day during the hottest parts of summer. Stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil; if it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about 1-2 inches of water per week, delivered deeply at the base of the plant rather than overhead, to avoid fungal diseases in our low-to-moderate humidity.

Underwatering can lead to blossom end rot and smaller fruit, while overwatering can cause root rot. Yellowing leaves are often a sign of overwatering. A good layer of mulch around the base of the plants will help retain moisture and reduce the need for frequent watering, which is especially important with our water restrictions in SoCal.

Better Boy Tomato is an indeterminate variety, meaning it will keep growing and producing fruit all season long. These vigorous vines get heavy with fruit, so you'll need to provide sturdy support to keep them off the ground. Cages or stakes both work well, but cages are often easier to manage for these big plants.

Install your support system at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later on. As the plant grows, weave the stems through the cage or tie them to the stake with soft twine, ensuring the support is strong enough to handle the weight of the mature plant and its fruit.

Pruning your Better Boy Tomato plants will help improve fruit size and overall plant health. The main thing to prune is the suckers – those small shoots that grow in the "V" between the main stem and the branches. Pinch them off when they're small.

Removing suckers directs the plant's energy into fruit production. You can also prune some of the lower leaves, especially those that are touching the ground, to improve air circulation and reduce the risk of disease. As the end of the season approaches (late December), you can top the plant to encourage the remaining green tomatoes to ripen before our first frost.

You can expect your first Better Boy Tomato harvest from late April through early June, about 72 days after transplanting. The tomatoes are ready to pick when they're a deep red color and have a slight give when gently squeezed.

To harvest, gently twist or cut the tomato from the vine, being careful not to damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages the plant to keep producing more fruit. As the end of the season nears and the first frost threatens in late December, harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen. They'll ripen best in a single layer, not touching, in a cool, dark location.

• Blossom End Rot
• What it looks like: A sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom of the tomato.
• What causes it: Inconsistent watering, leading to a calcium deficiency. Our drought conditions followed by periods of heavy watering can trigger this.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently, especially during dry spells. Mulch heavily to maintain even soil moisture. Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen. Remove affected fruit.
• Cracking
• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin, either in circles around the stem or lines radiating from it.
• What causes it: Rapid changes in soil moisture, often caused by heavy watering or rain after a dry spell.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently to avoid the dry/wet cycle. Mulch to maintain even moisture. Harvest promptly when ripe.
• Hornworms
• What it looks like: Large sections of leaves stripped overnight. You might see large green caterpillars with white stripes, and dark droppings on the leaves below.
• What causes it: These are larvae of hawk moths that lay their eggs on tomato plants.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick them (they're easy to spot). Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray is effective and organic.
• Early Blight
• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings on lower leaves, spreading upwards. Leaves yellow and drop.
• What causes it: A fungal disease (Alternaria solani) that thrives in warm, humid conditions. Soil splash spreads it.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves. Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base. Improve air circulation. Copper fungicide slows spread.

Southern California Specific Challenges: Our combination of hot summers and winter-wet rainfall, along with periodic drought, can create ideal conditions for blossom end rot and cracking. Consistent watering and mulching are key to mitigating these problems. Also, be vigilant for hornworms, especially after any warm, humid weather.

Basil is a great companion for Better Boy Tomatoes because it repels pests like tomato hornworms and whiteflies, plus it's said to improve the flavor of the tomatoes. Carrots loosen the soil, improving drainage and aeration. Parsley attracts beneficial insects that prey on tomato pests. French marigolds deter nematodes and other soil pests.

Avoid planting brassicas (like broccoli, cabbage, and kale) near tomatoes, as they can stunt tomato growth. Fennel inhibits the growth of many plants, including tomatoes, so keep it far away. Corn can attract tomato pests and diseases, so it's best to keep them separated. In our SoCal gardens, maximizing space is key, so choosing beneficial companions helps ensure a healthy and productive tomato crop.