Celebrity Tomato in Zone 6A — Pacific Northwest

Celebrity Tomato is a fantastic choice for Pacific Northwest gardeners looking for reliable, flavorful tomatoes. Its disease resistance is a real win in our often-damp springs, and the medium-sized fruits are perfect for slicing, salads, or canning. Plus, nothing beats the taste of a homegrown tomato ripened under our mild summer sun and cooled by our cool nights.

Our relatively short growing season (around 148 days) and occasional cool spells can be a challenge for warm-season crops like tomatoes. However, Celebrity's relatively quick maturity and adaptability mean you can enjoy a bountiful harvest with careful timing and a little extra attention.

Start your Celebrity Tomato seeds indoors from early to late April, about six weeks before you plan to transplant them outside. You'll need seed trays or small pots, a good seed-starting mix, and a warm, well-lit area. A heat mat can speed up germination, as our springs tend to be slow to warm up.

Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep and keep the soil consistently moist. Bottom watering is a great way to prevent damping off; simply set the seed tray in a shallow dish of water and let the soil soak it up from the bottom. Once seedlings emerge, make sure they get plenty of light. A grow light is especially helpful during our overcast spring days.

Transplant your Celebrity Tomato seedlings outdoors from late May through late June, once the danger of frost has passed. Before transplanting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. Start with a few hours of shade each day, gradually increasing the amount of sun and wind exposure.

Choose a sunny spot with well-drained soil and space the plants 24-36 inches apart. In the PNW, we sometimes get unexpected cool spells even in late spring, so be ready to cover your young plants if temperatures dip unexpectedly. Adding some compost to the planting hole will give them a good start.

Celebrity Tomatoes need consistent moisture, especially during our dry summer months. Aim to water deeply about 1-2 times per week, providing roughly 1-2 inches of water each time, depending on rainfall. Use the finger test: stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil; if it feels dry, it's time to water.

During the wet springs, you might not need to water at all, while during the drier stretches of summer, you may need to water more frequently. Always water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage. Overhead watering can increase the risk of fungal diseases, even with Celebrity's good disease resistance.

Underwatering can lead to blossom end rot, while overwatering can cause root rot. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and dry soil, while overwatering can cause yellowing leaves and soggy soil. A layer of mulch around the base of the plants helps retain moisture and suppress weeds, which is especially helpful during our dry summers.

Celebrity Tomatoes are a determinate variety, meaning they grow to a certain size and then stop, producing most of their fruit at once. However, they are semi-determinate, so they can still get fairly large and benefit from support. Medium-height cages or sturdy stakes work well.

Install the supports at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later. As the plant grows, gently weave the branches through the cage or tie them to the stake with soft twine. This will help keep the fruit off the ground and prevent the plant from toppling over, especially when loaded with tomatoes.

You can expect your first Celebrity Tomato harvest from early August through mid September, about 70 days after transplanting. The fruits are ready to pick when they are a deep red color, firm to the touch, and have a slight give when gently squeezed.

To harvest, gently twist the fruit until the stem snaps off. Avoid pulling, which can damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production. As the first frost approaches (usually around early October in the PNW), harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen. They will ripen best in a cool, dark place.

Blossom Drop

• What it looks like: Flowers fall off without setting fruit. Small fruit yellows and drops. The plant looks healthy but produces no fruit.
• What causes it: Temperature stress is the main culprit. Our cool nights or unexpectedly warm days in the PNW can prevent proper pollination. Low humidity can also play a role.
• How to fix/prevent it: Be patient; fruit set usually resumes when temperatures stabilize. Provide afternoon shade during heat waves. Make sure plants are well-watered. If you suspect poor pollination, try gently shaking the plants or using a small brush to transfer pollen between flowers.

Hornworms

• What it looks like: Large sections of leaves are stripped overnight. Look for large (up to 4 inches) green caterpillars with white diagonal stripes and dark droppings on the leaves below.
• What causes it: These are the larvae of hawk moths. They lay their eggs on tomato plants, and the caterpillars can defoliate a plant quickly.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpicking is very effective; just toss them into a bucket of soapy water. Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray is an organic and effective option. If you see hornworms with white cocoons on them, leave them be – parasitic wasps are at work!

Early Blight

• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings (target or bullseye pattern) appear on the lower leaves first, then spread upward. The leaves yellow and drop.
• What causes it: This fungal disease (Alternaria solani) thrives in warm, humid conditions and spreads via soil splash onto lower leaves. Our wet springs can create favorable conditions.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves (don't compost them). Mulch around the base of the plants to prevent soil splash. Water at the base of the plant, not overhead. Improve air circulation by spacing plants adequately and pruning if needed. Copper fungicide can help slow the spread. Rotate crops yearly.

Pacific Northwest Specific Challenges: Late blight can be a serious issue in the PNW, especially during wet summers. While Celebrity has good disease resistance, it's still important to monitor your plants closely. Our cool spring soil can also slow growth, so consider using black plastic or row covers to warm the soil before planting. The relatively short bursts of heat we get during the summer can also impact fruit set, making it essential to provide consistent moisture and protection from extreme temperatures.

Basil is an excellent companion for tomatoes. It's said to improve tomato flavor and repel pests. Carrots are also good companions as they loosen the soil and don't compete for the same nutrients. Parsley attracts beneficial insects that prey on tomato pests. Plant French marigolds nearby to deter nematodes and other soil pests.

Avoid planting tomatoes near brassicas (like cabbage and broccoli) as they can inhibit tomato growth. Fennel is also a bad companion as it inhibits the growth of many plants. Corn can attract tomato pests and diseases, so it's best to keep them separated. These companions are particularly important in the PNW as they can help improve growth and deter pests in our unique climate.