Early Girl Tomato in Zone 6A — Pacific Northwest

Early Girl Tomato is a fantastic choice for us here in the Pacific Northwest. It delivers that classic tomato flavor we crave, perfect for slicing on sandwiches or tossing into fresh salads, and does it reliably even with our mild summers and cool nights. Plus, there’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of harvesting ripe tomatoes from your own backyard.

While we may not have the long, scorching summers of other regions, Early Girl's early maturity makes it a winner in our 148-day growing season. By timing your starts right, you can beat the late blight that can plague our area and enjoy a bountiful harvest.

Start your Early Girl Tomato seeds indoors from early to late April. This gives them a head start before our soil warms up. You'll want to use seed trays or small pots filled with seed-starting mix.

Keep the trays in a warm spot, ideally around 70-75°F, and provide plenty of light – a grow light works best, especially with our often overcast spring days. Water gently from the bottom by placing the tray in a shallow dish of water until the soil surface looks moist. This prevents damping off.

Transplant your Early Girl Tomato seedlings outdoors from late May through early July, once the danger of frost has passed. Before transplanting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. Start with an hour or two of shade, then slowly increase the time and sun exposure each day.

Plant them 24-36 inches apart in a sunny spot. Keep an eye on the weather forecast, as we can still get some chilly nights even in late spring. If frost threatens, cover your young plants with blankets or cloches.

Early Girl Tomatoes need consistent moisture, especially during our dry summer months. However, our mild summers mean you likely won't need to water as much as gardeners in hotter climates. Stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil near the base of the plant. If it feels dry, it's time to water.

During the peak of summer, you might need to water deeply once or twice a week, providing about 1-2 inches of water each time. Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage. Overhead watering can encourage fungal diseases in our sometimes humid conditions.

Look out for signs of underwatering, like wilting leaves, or overwatering, like yellowing leaves. A layer of mulch, such as straw or wood chips, will help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, reducing the need for frequent watering.

Early Girl Tomatoes are an indeterminate variety, meaning they'll keep growing and producing fruit throughout the season, so they need support. A standard 5-foot tomato cage or sturdy stake works well. The cage offers all-around support as the plant grows.

Install the support at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later. As the plant grows, gently guide the stems through the cage or tie them to the stake with soft twine.

Pruning your Early Girl Tomatoes can help them ripen faster, which is a bonus in our region. Focus on removing the suckers that grow between the main stem and the branches. These suckers will develop into stems and produce more foliage, but they'll also draw energy away from fruit production.

Prune these suckers early in the morning on a dry day. As the season progresses, you can also remove the lower leaves that are touching the soil to improve air circulation and prevent disease. Towards the end of the season, around early October, you can pinch off the top of the plant to encourage the remaining tomatoes to ripen before the first frost.

You can expect your first harvest of Early Girl Tomatoes from mid-July through mid-September, depending on when you transplanted. The tomatoes are ready to pick when they turn a deep red color and feel slightly soft to the touch. Gently twist or cut the fruit from the vine, being careful not to damage the plant.

Harvest regularly to encourage continued production. As the first frost approaches in early October, harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen. They'll ripen best in a single layer, out of direct sunlight.

Blossom End Rot

• What it looks like: A dark, sunken spot on the bottom of the tomato.
• What causes it: Inconsistent watering, leading to calcium deficiency. The dry summer months, followed by periods of rain, can create these watering fluctuations.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water deeply and consistently, especially during dry spells. Mulch around the plants to help retain moisture. Remove affected fruits.

Early Blight

• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings on the lower leaves.
• What causes it: A fungal disease that thrives in warm, humid conditions. Soil splash spreads the fungus to the lower leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves. Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base of the plant. Copper fungicide can help slow the spread.

Hornworms

• What it looks like: Large sections of leaves missing, and large green caterpillars with white stripes.
• What causes it: Hawk moth larvae that feed voraciously on tomato plants.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick the hornworms. Bt spray is an effective organic control.

Cracking

• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin.
• What causes it: Sudden changes in soil moisture, often after heavy rain following a dry spell. The fruit expands faster than the skin.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently and mulch to maintain even soil moisture. Harvest ripe tomatoes promptly.

Pacific Northwest Specific Challenges: Our dry-summer climate, combined with mild heat, can make consistent watering a challenge, increasing the risk of blossom end rot and cracking. Late blight can also be a concern, especially later in the season, so choosing an early variety like Early Girl and getting a head start is key. Slugs can also be a nuisance, especially with young plants, so use slug bait or traps as needed.

Basil is a great companion for Early Girl Tomatoes because it repels tomato hornworms and whiteflies. Carrots improve the soil around tomatoes and deter nematodes. Parsley attracts beneficial insects that prey on tomato pests. French marigolds repel nematodes and other harmful soil pests.

Avoid planting brassicas (like cabbage or broccoli) near tomatoes, as they can inhibit tomato growth. Fennel inhibits the growth of many plants, including tomatoes. Corn can block sunlight and compete for nutrients.