Early Girl Tomato in Zone 6B — Pacific Northwest

Early Girl Tomato is a fantastic choice for Pacific Northwest gardeners seeking a reliably early and flavorful harvest. Its relatively short time to maturity means you can enjoy juicy, red tomatoes even with our mild summers and cool nights, perfect for fresh salads, sandwiches, or canning. The satisfaction of harvesting your own sun-ripened tomatoes in the PNW is hard to beat.

While our wet springs and the potential for late blight can be concerns, Early Girl's early maturity gives you a head start. With a little planning and attention to timing within our 162-day growing season, you can definitely succeed.

Start your Early Girl Tomato seeds indoors from late March through mid April, about six weeks before you plan to transplant them outdoors. Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix. Provide consistent warmth, ideally around 70-75°F, using a heat mat if needed.

Once seedlings emerge, they need plenty of light. Place them under grow lights, keeping the lights a few inches above the plants. A simple shop light with fluorescent bulbs works well. Remember to water from the bottom to encourage strong root growth and prevent damping-off, which can be common during our overcast spring days.

Transplant your Early Girl Tomato seedlings outdoors from mid May through late June, after the last expected frost. Before planting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. Start with an hour or two of shade, increasing the time and sun exposure each day.

Plant them 24-36 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Be mindful of potential late-season cold snaps, and be ready to cover your young plants if temperatures dip unexpectedly. Our cool soil in spring can stunt growth, so consider warming the soil with black plastic mulch for a week or two before planting.

Early Girl Tomatoes need consistent watering, especially during our dry summer months. Aim for about 1-2 inches of water per week, depending on rainfall. Use the "finger test" – stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil; if it feels dry, it's time to water.

Water deeply at the base of the plant to encourage deep root growth and keep the foliage dry, which helps prevent fungal diseases. Given our dry-summer humidity, overhead watering is generally fine, but avoid doing it in the late evening. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and blossom end rot, while overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot.

Mulching around your tomato plants with straw or compost helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, reducing the need for frequent watering.

Early Girl Tomato is an indeterminate variety, meaning it will continue to grow and produce fruit throughout the season. This requires sturdy support. Standard 5-foot tomato cages or strong stakes work well.

Install your chosen support at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later. As the plant grows, gently weave the stems through the cage or tie them to the stake with soft twine. This keeps the plant upright, prevents fruit from touching the soil, and improves air circulation.

Prune your Early Girl Tomato plants to encourage earlier and larger fruit. Focus on removing the suckers that grow in the "armpit" between the main stem and branches. Removing these suckers directs the plant's energy towards fruit production.

Start pruning suckers once the plant is about 12 inches tall and continue throughout the growing season. Also, remove any yellowing or diseased lower leaves to improve air circulation and prevent the spread of disease. As the first frost approaches around early October, you can top the plant to encourage the remaining green tomatoes to ripen.

You can expect your first harvest of Early Girl Tomatoes from early July through early September, about 50 days after transplanting. Look for medium-sized fruit that has turned a deep, even red color. The tomatoes should feel slightly soft to the touch.

Gently twist or cut the tomato from the vine, being careful not to damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production. As the end of the season approaches and temperatures drop, harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen. Place them in a paper bag with an apple or banana to speed up the ripening process.

What it looks like: A sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom (blossom end) of the tomato. What causes it: Inconsistent watering leading to calcium deficiency. Common early in the season when soil moisture fluctuates. How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently, especially during dry spells. Mulch heavily to maintain even soil moisture. Remove affected fruit.

What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings (target pattern) on lower leaves, spreading upward. Leaves yellow and drop. What causes it: A fungal disease that thrives in our warm, wet spring conditions. Spreads via soil splash. How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves. Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base. Improve air circulation through spacing and pruning. Copper fungicide can slow the spread.

What it looks like: Large sections of leaves stripped overnight. Large green caterpillars with white stripes and a horn. What causes it: Larvae of hawk moths. They can defoliate plants quickly if not spotted. How to fix/prevent it: Handpick the hornworms (they are easy to see). Bt spray is effective and organic. Look for them regularly, especially in late summer.

What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin, either concentric circles around the stem or lines radiating from the stem. What causes it: Heavy watering or rain after a dry spell. Common after our occasional summer thunderstorms. How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently to avoid dry/wet cycles. Mulch to maintain even moisture. Harvest promptly when ripe.

Pacific Northwest Specific Challenges: Late blight is always a looming threat in our region, and Early Girl, while early, isn't immune. Maintain good air circulation and consider a preventative fungicide if blight is prevalent in your area. Our cool soil in spring can slow growth, so be patient and use soil-warming techniques.

Basil is an excellent companion for Early Girl Tomatoes. It's said to improve the flavor of the tomatoes and repel certain pests. Carrots and parsley also make good companions, attracting beneficial insects that prey on tomato pests. French marigolds deter nematodes in the soil, which can be a problem in some gardens.

Avoid planting brassicas (cabbage, broccoli, kale) near tomatoes, as they can stunt tomato growth. Fennel inhibits the growth of many plants, including tomatoes, so keep it far away. Corn can block sunlight and compete for nutrients, which is especially problematic given our relatively short growing season.