Early Girl Tomato in Zone 7B — Pacific Northwest

Early Girl Tomato is a fantastic choice for Pacific Northwest gardeners in Zone 7B. Its relatively short maturity time means you can enjoy homegrown tomatoes even with our mild summers and cool nights. The flavor is classic, perfect for sandwiches, salads, and sauces, and there's nothing like the satisfaction of harvesting ripe tomatoes from your own garden.

While our wet springs and the occasional cool summer spell can present challenges, Early Girl's early ripening gives you a head start. With a growing season of around 193 days, careful timing and a little extra attention will reward you with a bountiful harvest.

Starting Early Girl Tomato seeds indoors is the way to go in the Pacific Northwest. Aim to sow your seeds mid-March through early April, about six weeks before you plan to transplant them outdoors. This gives them a strong start before our unpredictable spring weather arrives.

Use seed trays or small pots filled with seed-starting mix. Keep the soil consistently moist (but not soggy) by bottom watering – set the tray in a shallow dish of water and let the soil soak it up. Place the trays in a warm location, ideally around 70-75°F, and provide plenty of light, either with a grow light or in a sunny south-facing window. Remember, our spring days can be overcast, so supplemental lighting really helps.

Transplant your Early Girl Tomato seedlings outdoors late April through early June, once the danger of frost has passed. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. Start with an hour or two in a sheltered spot, increasing the time each day.

Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil. Space the plants 24-36 inches apart. Be mindful of our wet springs; avoid planting if the soil is waterlogged. A slightly raised bed can improve drainage.

Early Girl Tomatoes need consistent moisture, especially during our dry summer months. While we don't experience the extreme heat of other regions, the lack of rainfall means you'll need to stay on top of watering. Use the "finger test" – stick your finger into the soil about 2 inches deep. If it feels dry, it's time to water.

Aim for about 1-2 inches of water per week, depending on the weather. Water deeply at the base of the plant, rather than overhead, to prevent fungal diseases that can thrive in our humid springs. During our dry summers, overhead watering in the early morning is fine.

Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and slow growth. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. Mulching around the base of the plants with straw or wood chips helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, which is especially beneficial given our cool spring soil temperatures.

As an indeterminate variety, Early Girl Tomato plants will grow tall and require support. Cages or stakes work well. A standard 5-foot tomato cage is usually sufficient.

Install the support at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later. As the plant grows, gently guide the stems inside the cage or tie them to the stake with soft twine. This will keep the fruit off the ground and improve air circulation, reducing the risk of disease.

Pruning Early Girl Tomatoes can help improve fruit production, especially in our climate. Remove the suckers that grow between the main stem and the branches. This directs the plant's energy towards fruit development.

Focus on pruning the lower suckers early in the season for faster ripening. As we approach late October and the threat of frost, you can also top the plant to encourage the remaining green tomatoes to ripen.

You can expect your first Early Girl Tomato harvest mid June through mid August, about 50 days after transplanting. The fruit is ready when it turns a deep red color and is slightly soft to the touch.

Gently twist or cut the tomato from the vine, being careful not to damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production. As the weather cools in late October, harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen. Place them in a paper bag with an apple or banana to speed up the process.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with Early Girl Tomato in the Pacific Northwest:

• Blossom End Rot
• What it looks like: A sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom of the tomato.
• What causes it: Inconsistent watering leads to calcium deficiency. Our wet springs followed by dry summers can create this issue.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently, especially during dry spells. Mulch heavily. Remove affected fruit.
• Early Blight
• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings on lower leaves, spreading upwards. Leaves yellow and drop.
• What causes it: A fungal disease that thrives in warm, humid conditions. Common in our wet springs.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves. Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base. Improve air circulation by pruning. Copper fungicide can slow the spread.
• Hornworms
• What it looks like: Large sections of leaves stripped overnight. Large green caterpillars with white stripes.
• What causes it: Voracious caterpillars that can defoliate plants quickly.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick them. Bt spray is effective.
• Cracking
• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin, either concentric or radial.
• What causes it: Heavy watering or rain after a dry spell. Common in our climate with its alternating wet and dry periods.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently. Mulch to maintain even moisture. Harvest promptly when ripe.

Pacific Northwest Specific Challenges: Late blight is a constant concern in our region due to our damp conditions. Ensure good air circulation and consider blight-resistant varieties if it's a recurring problem. Cool soil in spring can slow growth, so consider warming the soil with plastic mulch before planting. Protect young plants from slugs, which thrive in our moist environment.

Companion planting can benefit Early Girl Tomatoes in the Pacific Northwest. Basil is a great choice because it repels tomato hornworms and whiteflies. The aroma is said to improve tomato flavor. Carrots also make good companions, as they deter root-knot nematodes and don't compete for the same nutrients. Parsley attracts beneficial insects and can improve the overall health of the tomato plant. French marigolds repel nematodes and other soil pests.

Avoid planting brassicas (cabbage, broccoli, kale) near tomatoes, as they can stunt tomato growth. Fennel inhibits the growth of many plants, including tomatoes. Corn competes for nutrients and sunlight, which can be a problem in our relatively short growing season.