Early Girl Tomato in Zone 8A — Pacific Northwest

Early Girl Tomato is a fantastic choice for us here in the Pacific Northwest. Its early maturity means you'll get to enjoy that fresh tomato flavor, even with our mild summers and cool nights. Plus, they're incredibly versatile in the kitchen, perfect for everything from sandwiches to sauces, and there's nothing quite like the satisfaction of harvesting your own ripe tomatoes.

Our PNW climate can be a bit tricky with its wet springs and relatively short bursts of real warmth, but Early Girl's quick growth habit makes it a winner. With our 203-day growing season, you'll have plenty of time to get a delicious harvest.

Start your Early Girl Tomato seeds indoors from early to late March, about six weeks before you plan to transplant them outside. You'll want to use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix. Keep them warm – a heat mat underneath can really help germination – and provide plenty of light, either from a sunny window or a grow light.

Bottom watering is your friend! Set the seed trays in a shallow tray of water and let the soil soak it up from the bottom. This encourages strong root growth and prevents damping off. Remember, spring can be slow to warm up here, so patience is key.

Transplant your Early Girl Tomato seedlings outdoors from late April through early June, once the danger of frost has passed. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This prevents transplant shock.

Space your plants 24-36 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Be mindful of those overcast spring days; even a little sun is better than none. If we get a late cold snap, be ready to cover your young plants.

Early Girl Tomatoes need consistent moisture, especially during our dry summer months. While they're a bit more forgiving than some heirloom varieties, regular watering is still essential for good fruit production. During the wet springs, you might not need to water much at all, but once the dry summer hits, you'll need to be more diligent.

Stick your finger about two inches deep into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about 1-2 inches of water per week, depending on rainfall. Water at the base of the plant to avoid splashing soil onto the leaves, which can help prevent fungal diseases in our sometimes humid conditions.

Drooping leaves are a sign of underwatering, while yellowing leaves can indicate overwatering. A good layer of mulch, like straw or wood chips, will help retain moisture and keep the soil temperature even, which is especially helpful during those cool PNW nights.

Early Girl Tomatoes are an indeterminate variety, meaning they'll keep growing and producing fruit throughout the season, so they need support. A standard 5-foot tomato cage or sturdy stakes work well. Cages are generally easier, as you just place them around the plant at planting time.

Install your chosen support system at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later. If using stakes, tie the main stem to the stake loosely with soft twine or fabric strips as the plant grows. This will keep the plant upright and prevent the fruit-laden branches from breaking.

Pruning your Early Girl Tomato plants can help encourage earlier ripening, which is a bonus in our climate. Focus on removing the suckers that grow in the "V" between the main stem and the branches. These suckers will just steal energy from fruit production.

Prune these suckers when they're small, early in the season. Also, remove any yellowing or diseased lower leaves to improve air circulation and prevent fungal diseases. Towards the end of the season, as our first frost approaches around late October, you can top the plant to encourage the remaining fruit to ripen.

You can expect your first harvest of Early Girl Tomatoes from mid-June through mid-August, depending on when you transplanted. The fruit is ready when it turns a deep red color and feels slightly soft to the touch. Since it's one of the earliest varieties, you'll be enjoying homegrown tomatoes before you know it.

Gently twist or cut the tomato from the vine, being careful not to damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production, so check your plants every few days. As late October approaches, keep an eye on the forecast.

If a frost is predicted, harvest any remaining green tomatoes. They'll ripen indoors if you place them in a paper bag with an apple or banana.

Blossom End Rot

• What it looks like: A dark, sunken spot on the bottom of the tomato, often affecting the first fruits of the season.
• What causes it: Inconsistent watering, leading to calcium deficiency. Our wet springs followed by dry summers can create this issue.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently, especially during dry spells. Mulch around the plants to maintain even soil moisture. Remove affected fruit.

Early Blight

• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings on the lower leaves, which eventually yellow and drop off.
• What causes it: A fungal disease that thrives in warm, humid conditions. Soil splash spreads the fungus.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves. Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base of the plant. Copper fungicide can help slow the spread.

Hornworms

• What it looks like: Large sections of leaves stripped overnight. Look for large green caterpillars with white stripes and dark droppings on the leaves.
• What causes it: These are the larvae of hawk moths and they can decimate a plant in a short amount of time.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick them off the plants (they're easy to spot). Bt spray is an effective organic control.

Cracking

• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin, either in circles around the stem or radiating out from it.
• What causes it: Rapid changes in soil moisture, like heavy rain after a dry spell.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently. Mulch to maintain even soil moisture. Harvest ripe tomatoes promptly.

Pacific Northwest Specific Challenges: Late blight can be a concern in our region, especially with our cool, wet springs. Be vigilant about checking your plants for signs of disease and take preventative measures like ensuring good air circulation.

Basil is a classic companion for tomatoes because it repels pests and is said to improve the flavor of the tomatoes. Carrots help deter nematodes in the soil, and parsley attracts beneficial insects. French marigolds also deter nematodes and other soil pests.

Avoid planting tomatoes near brassicas like cabbage or broccoli, as they can stunt tomato growth. Fennel inhibits the growth of many plants, including tomatoes. Corn can block sunlight and compete for nutrients, which isn't ideal for tomatoes trying to ripen in our shorter season.