Early Girl Tomato in Zone 8B — Desert Southwest

Early Girl Tomato is a winner in the Desert Southwest. You get that classic tomato flavor faster than almost any other variety, and they're incredibly versatile in the kitchen. Plus, seeing those first red tomatoes pop up in your garden is just plain satisfying after a long winter.

We know our extreme heat and alkaline soil can be tough on plants, but Early Girl's early maturity lets you harvest a good crop before the worst of summer hits. With our long 279-day growing season, you can even squeeze in a second planting for a fall harvest.

Start your Early Girl Tomato seeds indoors from late January through mid February. This gives them about 6 weeks to get a head start before transplanting. Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix and keep them warm – a heat mat helps.

Give your seedlings plenty of light; a grow light is ideal, especially with our very-early spring character. Water from the bottom to avoid damping off, which is a common problem. Fill the tray with water and let the soil soak it up.

Transplant your Early Girl Tomato seedlings outdoors from mid March through late April, once the danger of frost has passed. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This prevents transplant shock.

Space your plants 24-36 inches apart to give them room to grow. Keep an eye on the weather; a late cold snap can still happen, even in the Desert Southwest. Be ready to cover your seedlings if temperatures dip unexpectedly.

Early Girl Tomatoes need consistent moisture, especially in our arid climate. Water deeply and regularly. This variety is more forgiving than some, but don't let them dry out completely.

During the spring and fall growing seasons, water deeply about 2-3 times per week, providing about 1-2 inches of water each time. Use the "finger test": stick your finger into the soil about 2 inches deep. If it feels dry, it's time to water. During the extreme heat of summer, you might need to water every day.

Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our low humidity. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and stunted growth. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. Mulching with compost or straw helps retain moisture and keeps the soil cooler.

Early Girl Tomatoes are an indeterminate variety, meaning they'll keep growing and producing fruit all season long. They need strong support to keep them off the ground. Standard 5-foot tomato cages work well, or you can use sturdy stakes.

Install your chosen support at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later. As the plant grows, gently tie the main stem to the stake or guide it through the cage. This prevents the plant from sprawling and keeps the fruit clean.

Prune your Early Girl Tomatoes to encourage early ripening and better airflow. Remove the suckers that grow in the "V" between the main stem and branches. This directs the plant's energy into fruit production.

Focus on the lower suckers early in the season. As the first frost approaches around early December, you can top the plant (cut off the growing tip) to encourage the remaining green tomatoes to ripen.

You can expect your first harvest of Early Girl Tomatoes from late April through early July. These are one of the earliest-ripening varieties, so you'll be enjoying fresh tomatoes before you know it. Look for medium-sized fruit that has turned a deep red color.

Gently twist or snip the tomato from the vine, being careful not to damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production. As the first frost nears, harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen. They'll ripen best in a single layer, out of direct sunlight.

Blossom End Rot

• What it looks like: A sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom of the tomato. Often affects the first fruits.
• What causes it: Calcium deficiency due to inconsistent watering. Common in our Desert Southwest climate with its cycles of drought and monsoon moisture.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently. Mulch heavily to maintain even soil moisture. Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen. Remove affected fruit.

Early Blight

• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings (target pattern) on lower leaves, spreading upwards. Leaves yellow and drop.
• What causes it: Fungal disease that thrives in warm conditions. Spreads via soil splash, especially during monsoon season.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves. Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base. Improve air circulation with spacing and pruning. Copper fungicide can slow the spread.

Hornworms

• What it looks like: Large sections of leaves stripped overnight. Large green caterpillars with white diagonal stripes. Dark droppings on leaves below.
• What causes it: Larvae of hawk moths. They can defoliate plants quickly in our Desert Southwest gardens.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick them (they don't bite). Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray is effective and organic. Leave hornworms with white cocoons on them – those are beneficial parasitic wasp eggs.

Cracking

• What it looks like: Splits in tomato skin – either concentric (circles around stem) or radial (lines radiating from stem).
• What causes it: Heavy watering after a dry spell. Common in our climate with its unpredictable monsoon rains.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently to avoid dry/wet cycles. Mulch to maintain even moisture. Harvest promptly when ripe.

Desert Southwest Specific Challenges: Our extreme heat can cause sunscald on tomatoes, so consider using shade cloth during the hottest part of the summer. The arid humidity can stress plants, making consistent watering even more crucial. Be prepared for monsoon moisture, which can exacerbate fungal diseases and cracking.

Basil is a great companion for Early Girl Tomatoes because it repels pests like tomato hornworms and whiteflies. Carrots improve the soil around tomatoes and their feathery foliage deters some pests. Parsley attracts beneficial insects that prey on tomato pests. French marigolds also deter nematodes and other soil pests.

Avoid planting brassicas (like cabbage and broccoli) near tomatoes, as they can inhibit tomato growth. Fennel is also a bad companion because it releases chemicals that can stunt the growth of many plants. Corn competes with tomatoes for nutrients and water, which is a problem in our water-scarce region.