Early Girl Tomato in Zone 8B — Southeast

Early Girl Tomato is a winner here in the Southeast because it actually delivers on its promise of early tomatoes. That means you can get a jump on the season and enjoy fresh, homegrown flavor weeks before other varieties even think about ripening. Plus, they're just darn good – perfect for slicing, dicing, or popping straight into your mouth while you're working in the garden.

Sure, our hot and humid summers can bring challenges, but with a little planning, you can easily outsmart those issues. Our long 255-day growing season gives you plenty of time to get a great harvest of Early Girls.

Here in the Southeast, you'll want to start your Early Girl Tomato seeds indoors sometime from early to late February. This gives them about 6 weeks to get a good head start before the weather warms up enough to transplant. Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, and keep them warm – a heat mat underneath can really help.

Make sure they get plenty of light – a grow light is ideal, especially with our moderate spring sunlight. And don't forget to water from the bottom to encourage strong root growth and prevent damping off.

You can transplant your Early Girl Tomato seedlings outdoors from late March through early May. The key is to harden them off first – gradually expose them to outdoor conditions for about a week before planting. This prevents shock.

Space them about 24-36 inches apart to give them plenty of room to grow. Keep an eye on the weather forecast – those late-season cool snaps can still sneak up on you.

Early Girl Tomatoes need consistent moisture, especially with our long, hot summers. You'll want to water deeply and regularly. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil about 2 inches down – if it's dry, it's time to water.

During the hottest part of the summer, that might mean giving them a good soaking a couple of times a week, aiming for about 1-2 inches of water per week. With our humidity, it's best to water at the base of the plant to avoid creating a breeding ground for fungal diseases.

Underwatering can lead to blossom end rot (more on that later), while overwatering can cause root rot. Mulching around the base of the plants helps retain moisture and keeps the soil temperature more even, which is especially helpful with our clay soil.

Because Early Girl Tomatoes are indeterminate, they'll keep growing and producing all season long, so they need good support. A standard 5-foot tomato cage works well, or you can use sturdy stakes.

Install the support when you transplant the seedlings to avoid damaging the roots later on. As the plant grows, gently weave the stems through the cage or tie them to the stake with soft twine.

Pruning Early Girl Tomatoes can help them ripen faster, which is a bonus with our sometimes unpredictable weather. Focus on removing the suckers – those little shoots that grow in the "V" between the main stem and the branches.

Pinch them off when they're small. Also, remove the lower leaves that touch the soil to improve air circulation and prevent disease. As the end of the season approaches (around mid- November), you can top the plant to encourage the remaining tomatoes to ripen before the first frost.

You can expect your first harvest of Early Girl Tomatoes from mid May through mid July. The tomatoes are ready when they turn a deep red color and are slightly soft to the touch.

Gently twist the tomato off the vine, being careful not to damage the plant. To encourage continued production, harvest regularly as the tomatoes ripen.

If a frost threatens in mid- November, harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen. They may not taste quite as good as vine-ripened ones, but they'll still be delicious in sauces and salsas.

Blossom End Rot

• What it looks like: A dark, sunken spot on the bottom of the tomato.
• What causes it: Inconsistent watering leads to calcium deficiency. Our clay soil can make drainage tricky, and those afternoon thunderstorms after a dry spell can trigger it.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently, mulch well, and avoid over-fertilizing. Remove affected fruit.

Early Blight

• What it looks like: Brown spots with rings on the lower leaves.
• What causes it: This fungal disease thrives in our humid conditions.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves, mulch to prevent soil splash, water at the base, and improve air circulation by spacing plants properly. Copper fungicide can slow the spread.

Hornworms

• What it looks like: Stripped leaves and big green caterpillars.
• What causes it: These guys love tomato plants, and they can defoliate them quickly.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick them or use Bt spray.

Cracking

• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin.
• What causes it: Heavy rain after a dry spell.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently, mulch, and harvest promptly.

Southeast Specific Challenges: Our hot heat, humid humidity, and wet-summer rainfall create the perfect environment for fungal diseases like early blight. Consistent watering is critical to prevent blossom end rot and cracking, but you have to balance that with good drainage to avoid root rot. Also, keep an eye out for Japanese beetles, they will skeletonize tomato leaves.

Basil is a great companion for Early Girl Tomatoes – it repels pests and is said to improve the flavor of the tomatoes. Carrots and parsley also make good companions, as they attract beneficial insects. French marigolds deter nematodes and other soil pests.

Avoid planting brassicas (like cabbage and broccoli) near your tomatoes, as they can stunt their growth. Fennel is also a bad companion, as it inhibits the growth of many plants. Corn can attract tomato pests, so keep them separated.