Cabbage in Zone 7A — Midwest

Cabbage is a rewarding crop to grow here in the Midwest. Its crisp, slightly sweet flavor is fantastic fresh, fermented into sauerkraut, or cooked into comforting dishes perfect for those cooler fall evenings. Plus, there's something deeply satisfying about harvesting a tightly packed head of cabbage that you nurtured from a tiny seed.

Our Midwest weather can be unpredictable, with temperature swings in spring and those summer heat spells we all know so well. But with a little planning and attention to timing, you can absolutely grow beautiful cabbages during our 193-day growing season.

Starting your cabbage indoors is the way to go for a spring harvest here in the Midwest. Begin in early to late February, about six weeks before you plan to transplant. This gives the seedlings a good head start before our moderate-to-late spring arrives.

Use seed trays filled with a good seed-starting mix. Keep them warm and provide plenty of light – a grow light works wonders! Don't forget to water from the bottom to encourage strong root growth and prevent damping off.

You can transplant your cabbage seedlings outdoors in late March through late April. Before you do, be sure to harden them off. Gradually expose them to outdoor conditions for about a week to get them ready for the elements.

When transplanting, space the plants 12-18 inches apart. Our unpredictable spring weather can bring late frosts, so keep an eye on the forecast and be prepared to cover your young plants if needed.

Cabbage needs consistent moisture to thrive, but overwatering can lead to problems, especially with our moderate-to-humid Midwest summers. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week, whether from rainfall or irrigation.

The finger test is your friend: stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the leaves, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid climate.

Watch for signs of underwatering (wilting leaves) or overwatering (yellowing leaves). Mulching around your cabbage plants with straw or shredded leaves helps retain moisture and keeps the soil temperature even, which is beneficial during those summer heat spells.

You can expect to harvest your cabbage from early June through late July, about 70 days after transplanting. The key is to check for firmness. The head should feel solid and dense when you give it a gentle squeeze.

Once the head is firm and has reached a good size for the variety you're growing, it's time to harvest. Use a sharp knife to cut the head off at the base of the plant.

As our first frost approaches around mid- October, harvest any remaining heads, even if they're not quite as large as you'd hoped. They'll store well in a cool, dry place for a few weeks.

Here are some common cabbage problems we face in the Midwest:

• Cabbage Worms
• What it looks like: Smooth green caterpillars chewing irregular holes in leaves, dark green droppings, and white butterflies fluttering around.
• What causes it: Larvae of those white cabbage butterflies. They can have multiple generations throughout our warm summers.
• How to fix/prevent it: Bt spray is your best friend. Floating row covers prevent the butterflies from laying eggs in the first place. Handpicking helps, too.
• Cabbage Loopers
• What it looks like: Similar to cabbage worms, but these caterpillars move in a looping motion. They also chew holes in leaves.
• What causes it: Another type of caterpillar that loves brassicas.
• How to fix/prevent it: Bt spray works on these as well. Handpicking and row covers are also effective.
• Splitting
• What it looks like: The cabbage head cracks open.
• What causes it: Inconsistent watering. A sudden heavy rain after a dry spell causes the head to grow too quickly.
• How to fix/prevent it: Consistent watering is key. Mulch to retain moisture. If heavy rain is expected, consider cutting a slit in the base of the head to relieve pressure.
• Clubroot
• What it looks like: Stunted growth, wilting in the afternoon heat, yellowing leaves. Dig up the plant, and you'll see swollen, distorted, club-shaped roots.
• What causes it: A soil-borne pathogen that can persist for years. It thrives in acidic, wet soil.
• How to fix/prevent it: Raise your soil pH to 7.0-7.2 with lime. Improve drainage. Rotate your brassicas on a long, 7-year cycle. Remove and destroy infected plants.

Midwest Specific Challenges: Our moderate-to-hot summers and moderate-to-humid conditions can create a favorable environment for pests and diseases. Consistent monitoring and prompt action are crucial to keeping your cabbage healthy.

Companion planting can really help your cabbage thrive here in the Midwest.

• Green beans fix nitrogen in the soil, which benefits cabbage. Celery repels cabbage white butterflies. Onions deter many pests with their strong scent. Potatoes don't compete for the same nutrients. Dill attracts beneficial insects that prey on cabbage pests.
• Avoid planting cabbage near tomatoes, strawberries, or peppers. Tomatoes and peppers compete for nutrients and can attract some of the same pests. Strawberries are susceptible to verticillium wilt, which can also affect cabbage.