Chamomile in Zone 6B — Mountain West

Chamomile is a fantastic addition to any Mountain West garden. Its delicate, apple-like flavor makes a soothing tea, and it's incredibly versatile in the garden, attracting beneficial insects. Plus, there's real satisfaction in harvesting your own chamomile under our intense sun and cool nights.

Our short growing season and alkaline soil might seem daunting, but chamomile is surprisingly resilient. With the right timing and a little attention, you can easily enjoy a bountiful harvest within our 163-day window.

Starting chamomile indoors gives you a head start, but isn't always necessary. If you're aiming for an extra-early harvest, or want to ensure germination, this is a good option.

Start your seeds indoors from late February through mid March, about 6 weeks before you plan to transplant. Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, keep them warm (around 70°F), and provide plenty of light – a simple shop light works well. Bottom watering helps prevent damping off and keeps the seedlings happy. Remember our springs here in the Mountain West tend to arrive late, so patience is key!

Transplant your chamomile seedlings outdoors from mid April through early May, after the danger of hard frost has passed. Before transplanting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Space them 6-8 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Keep an eye on the forecast for late-season cold snaps, as they can still happen even in late April. A row cover can provide extra protection if needed.

Direct sowing chamomile is a simple and effective method, especially if you don't want to fuss with starting seeds indoors. You can direct sow from mid April through late July.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and removing any weeds. Chamomile prefers slightly warmer soil, so waiting until the soil temperature is consistently above 60°F will improve germination rates. Sow seeds 6-8 inches apart and lightly cover them with soil. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge.

Chamomile is relatively drought-tolerant once established, making it a great choice for our dry Mountain West climate. Overwatering is a bigger concern than underwatering, as it can lead to weak, leggy growth.

In the spring, water regularly until the plants are established, about an inch per week. Once established, reduce watering frequency. During our hot, dry summers, water deeply only when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch – the "finger test." This usually translates to about a half-inch of water per week, if that.

Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases, even with our low humidity. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and stunted growth, while overwatering can cause yellowing leaves and root rot. Mulching around the plants with straw or wood chips helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, which is always helpful in our climate.

You can expect your first chamomile harvest from early June through mid October, about 60 days after sowing. The best time to harvest is in the morning after the dew has dried, when the flowers are at their peak.

Look for flowers where the petals have just begun to bend slightly backward from the center cone. Gently pluck the flowers from the stems, being careful not to damage the rest of the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production throughout the season.

As our first frost approaches in early October, harvest any remaining flowers, even if they aren't fully open. You can dry them indoors to enjoy chamomile tea throughout the winter.

Here are some common problems you might encounter growing chamomile in the Mountain West:

Aphids

• What it looks like: Clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects (green, black, or white) on stems and leaf undersides. Sticky honeydew residue. Curled or distorted new growth.
• What causes it: Rapid-reproducing sap-sucking insects. Populations explode in warm weather. Ant colonies may farm them for honeydew.
• How to fix/prevent it: Strong water spray knocks them off. Encourage ladybugs and lacewings (natural predators). Insecticidal soap for heavy infestations. Neem oil works systemically. Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer (it attracts them).

Mealybugs

• What it looks like: White, cottony masses on stems, leaves, and in leaf crevices. Stunted growth and yellowing leaves. Sticky honeydew residue.
• What causes it: Sap-sucking insects that thrive in warm, dry conditions. They often hitchhike on new plants or are spread by ants. Our low humidity can make them more persistent.
• How to fix/prevent it: Dab individual mealybugs with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Strong water spray. Insecticidal soap or neem oil. Encourage beneficial insects like lacewings and mealybug destroyers.

Thrips

• What it looks like: Tiny, slender insects that are difficult to see with the naked eye. Silvery or distorted leaves, especially on new growth. Black specks of excrement on foliage.
• What causes it: Sap-sucking insects that thrive in hot, dry weather. They can be blown in by the wind or spread by other plants. Our intense sun can exacerbate the damage they cause.
• How to fix/prevent it: Strong water spray. Insecticidal soap or neem oil. Blue sticky traps to catch adults. Encourage beneficial insects like lacewings and predatory mites. Keep the garden free of weeds and debris.

Mountain West Specific Challenges: Our moderate-at-altitude heat, low humidity, and dry climate can create ideal conditions for pests like mealybugs and thrips. The intense sun can also stress plants, making them more susceptible to infestations. Regular monitoring and prompt action are key to keeping your chamomile healthy and productive.

Chamomile benefits from companion planting, and can, in turn, benefit other plants.

Onions, cabbage, and broccoli make great companions for chamomile. The strong scent of onions helps to repel pests that might bother chamomile, while chamomile attracts beneficial insects that prey on cabbage worms and other cabbage pests. Cucumbers also benefit from chamomile, as it attracts pollinators that improve fruit set. Green beans also thrive near chamomile, as it deters bean beetles.

Avoid planting chamomile near mint or fennel. Mint can be invasive and compete with chamomile for resources, while fennel inhibits the growth of many plants, including chamomile.