Chives in Zone 3B — Mountain West

Chives are a must-have in any Mountain West garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from eggs to baked potatoes, and they’re incredibly easy to grow. Plus, harvesting fresh herbs you've grown yourself, even in our short season, is deeply satisfying.

Our high altitude, with its intense sun and cool nights, presents unique challenges, but chives are surprisingly resilient. With careful timing and attention, you can enjoy a continuous harvest throughout our brief 108-day growing season.

Starting chives indoors gives you a head start, but isn't strictly necessary in our region. This is most useful if you want a really early harvest or are starting from seed for the first time. Starting seeds indoors gives you more control over the environment, which is helpful given our late spring and potential for unexpected temperature swings.

If starting indoors, sow seeds early to late March, about 8 weeks before you plan to transplant. Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, keep them warm (around 70°F), and provide plenty of light – a grow light is ideal. Remember to water from the bottom to avoid damping off.

Transplant your chives outdoors mid May through early June, after the danger of hard frost has passed. Before transplanting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the intense sun and cooler nights.

Space your chives plants 8-12 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Keep an eye on the forecast for late frosts – be prepared to cover your transplants if needed. Honestly, buying established starts or dividing an existing clump is often a much faster way to get a thriving chive patch going.

Direct sowing chives is a viable option, though it takes longer for the plants to establish. Sow seeds late April through early June, when the soil has warmed up a bit. Chives seeds need soil temperatures above 60°F to germinate well.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and adding compost. Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep and space them 8-12 inches apart, or sow in clusters and thin later. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge. Be patient – chives are slow to get going from seed, so divisions or starts will give you faster results.

Chives need moderate, consistent watering, especially in our dry Mountain West climate. While they are more tolerant of moisture than many herbs, they aren't drought-tolerant and will suffer in prolonged dry spells. Think of them as needing more water than rosemary, but less than lettuce.

During the peak of summer, when temperatures are in the 80s, water deeply about once a week, providing about 1 inch of water. Use the "finger test" – stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil; if it feels dry, it's time to water. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases, even in our low humidity.

In the spring and fall, when temperatures are cooler, you can reduce watering to once every 10-14 days. Watch for signs of underwatering, such as wilting or yellowing leaves, and overwatering, such as soggy soil or bulb rot. A light layer of mulch, like straw or wood chips, can help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.

You can expect your first chive harvest mid July through mid September, about 80 days after planting. The leaves are ready to harvest when they are at least 6 inches tall. Cut the leaves 1-2 inches above the base of the plant.

Harvesting regularly encourages new growth, so don't be shy about snipping off what you need. Cut from the outside of the clump inward. Chives will continue to produce throughout the growing season.

As the first frost approaches in early September, cut back the entire plant to a few inches above the ground. This encourages new growth the following spring. Every 3 years, divide the clumps to maintain vigor and prevent overcrowding.

Here are a few common problems you might encounter with chives in the Mountain West:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots feeding on the bulbs.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of the plant, and the larvae burrow into the bulbs.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Till the soil in the fall to disrupt the pupae.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves (though less common in our dry climate).
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and a soft, mushy bulb.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly drained soil leads to fungal or bacterial infections that rot the bulb.
• How to fix/prevent it: Plant chives in well-drained soil. Avoid overwatering. Improve soil drainage by adding compost or other organic matter.

Mountain West Specific Challenges: Our low humidity helps reduce the risk of fungal diseases like rust, but the intense sun can stress plants if they aren't adequately watered. Be vigilant about watering and consider providing some afternoon shade during the hottest part of the summer. Hail can also damage chive leaves, so consider using row covers or netting if hail is in the forecast.

Companion planting can help your chives thrive.

Good companions include carrots because chives repel carrot root flies. Tomatoes also benefit from chives, as they deter aphids and other pests. Roses benefit from chives' ability to deter aphids and black spot. Grapes also benefit from the pest deterring effect.

Avoid planting chives near beans-green and peas, as they can inhibit their growth.