Chives in Zone 3B — Great Plains

Chives are a must-have for any Great Plains garden. Their mild onion flavor brightens up everything from scrambled eggs to baked potatoes, and they're incredibly easy to grow here. Plus, the pretty purple blossoms attract pollinators to your garden, which is always a win in our short growing season.

Our region throws some curveballs with its extreme temperature swings and unpredictable rainfall. But with a little planning, you can easily enjoy fresh chives from mid-summer into early fall. Our 118-day growing season is plenty of time to get a good harvest.

Starting chives indoors gives you a head start, though it's not strictly necessary. If you're eager for an early harvest, sow seeds indoors from early to late March, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant. Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix and keep them in a warm spot with plenty of light – a sunny south-facing window or under grow lights works well.

Keep the soil consistently moist by bottom watering. That's where you add water to the tray beneath the pots, allowing the soil to soak it up from the bottom. This prevents damping off, a common problem with seedlings. With our variable spring weather, an indoor start ensures your chives get going strong before facing our sometimes-harsh conditions.

Transplant your chives outdoors from early May through early June, once the danger of hard frost has passed. Before planting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the sunlight and wind.

Plant them 8-12 inches apart in well-drained soil. Even in early May, we can still get a late cold snap or even hail, so be prepared to cover your transplants if necessary. Buying established chives starts from a local nursery or dividing existing clumps is a much faster way to get established plants than starting from seed.

Direct sowing chives is a straightforward option, especially if you're not in a rush. Sow seeds outdoors from late April through mid June, once the soil has warmed up a bit. Chives prefer soil temperatures around 60-70°F for optimal germination.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and removing any rocks or debris. Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep and 8-12 inches apart. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge. Keep in mind that chives are slow to establish from seed, so be patient. Divisions or nursery starts will give you quicker results.

Chives need moderate, consistent watering, especially during our hot Plains summers. They're more tolerant of moisture than some other herbs, but they're not drought-tolerant. Water deeply whenever the top 2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch – use the "finger test" to check.

During hot, dry stretches, you might need to water every few days, providing about an inch of water per week. During periods of rainfall, you may not need to water at all. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our moderate humidity. Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves, while overwatering can lead to bulb rot.

A layer of mulch around your chives will help retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Straw or shredded leaves work well in our climate.

You can expect your first chive harvest from mid July through late September, about 80 days after planting. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall.

To harvest, simply cut the leaves 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth, and you can harvest continuously throughout the growing season. Divide established clumps every three years to maintain vigor.

As the first frost approaches in mid- September, give your chives one last good harvest. You can freeze the chopped chives for use throughout the winter, or even pot up a clump to bring indoors for fresh herbs all winter long.

Here are a few common problems you might encounter with chives in the Great Plains:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots in the bulbs.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of the plants, and the larvae burrow into the bulbs. This is more common during wet springs.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Encourage beneficial insects like parasitic wasps.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot

• What it looks like: Soft, mushy bulbs with a foul odor. Leaves may turn yellow or brown.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly drained soil can lead to bulb rot, especially in heavy clay soils.
• How to fix/prevent it: Improve soil drainage by adding compost or other organic matter. Avoid overwatering. Plant chives in raised beds if your soil is prone to waterlogging.

Great Plains Specific Challenges: The hot heat and variable rainfall of the Great Plains can stress chives, making them more susceptible to pests and diseases. Consistent watering and good soil drainage are key to keeping them healthy. Our winds can also dry out the soil quickly, so mulching is essential.

Chives make excellent companions for several plants in the Great Plains garden. Carrots benefit from chives because the oniony scent repels carrot rust flies. Tomatoes also thrive near chives, as they deter aphids and other pests. Roses benefit from chives planted nearby because they are said to help deter black spot and aphids. Grapes benefit from the pest deterring properties of chives, too.

Avoid planting chives near beans or peas. Chives can inhibit their growth.