Chives in Zone 5B — Mountain West

Chives are a fantastic addition to any high-altitude garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from eggs to baked potatoes, and they're so easy to snip fresh, right when you need them. Plus, their purple flowers are a welcome sight, attracting pollinators to your garden in the intense Mountain sun.

Our short growing season and cool nights present some challenges, but Chives are hardy enough to thrive here. With a little planning and attention to timing, you can enjoy fresh Chives from late June through early October, making the most of our 149-day growing season.

Starting Chives indoors gives you a head start, but it's not always necessary. If you're impatient, or want a large harvest the first year, starting indoors makes sense. Otherwise, direct sowing works fine.

If you choose to start indoors, sow seeds mid-February through early March, about eight weeks before our typical last frost. Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, provide warmth (a heat mat helps), and ensure they get plenty of light, especially given our late spring starts. Bottom watering keeps the seedlings evenly moist without encouraging fungal diseases.

Transplant your Chives outdoors late April through mid May, once the danger of hard frost has passed. Before planting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This is crucial, as the temperature swings can be dramatic, even in late spring.

Space plants 8-12 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Buying starts from a local nursery or dividing existing clumps is a much faster way to get established plants than starting from seed.

Direct sowing Chives is a simple option, especially if you're not in a rush. Sow seeds early April through late June, once the soil has warmed up a bit. Chives seeds need consistent soil temperatures to germinate.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and removing any rocks or debris. Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep and space them 8-12 inches apart, or sow in clumps and thin later. Keep the soil consistently moist. Be patient; Chives are slow to establish from seed. Divisions or starts give you a quicker harvest.

Chives need consistent moisture, but they don't like to be waterlogged, especially in our alkaline soil. Aim for moderate watering, more than you would for some other herbs like rosemary or thyme.

During the hottest part of the summer, when temperatures climb to 85°F, water deeply about once a week, providing around 1 inch of water. Use the finger test to check soil moisture: if the top 2 inches feel dry, it's time to water. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal issues, even though our humidity is low.

In spring and fall, when temperatures are cooler, you may only need to water every 10-14 days. Overwatering can lead to bulb rot, so watch for yellowing leaves. Underwatering will cause the leaves to wilt and turn brown at the tips. A light layer of mulch, like straw or shredded bark, helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, especially with our intense sun.

You can expect your first harvest of Chives in late June through early October, about 80 days after planting from seed. The leaves are ready to harvest when they are at least 6 inches tall.

To harvest, simply snip the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth and keeps the plant producing. Cut the outer leaves first, leaving the inner ones to mature. Harvest regularly to prevent the plants from flowering, as this can reduce leaf production.

As the first frost approaches in early October, cut back the entire plant to about 2 inches above the ground. Chives are hardy and will regrow in the spring. Divide clumps every 3 years to keep them vigorous and prevent overcrowding.

Here are a few common problems you might encounter with Chives in the Mountain West:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots feeding on the bulbs.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of the plants, and the larvae burrow into the bulbs.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Encourage beneficial insects that prey on onion flies.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Even with our low humidity, moisture can linger on leaves, especially after rain or overhead watering.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves promptly. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation by spacing plants adequately. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide if necessary. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing or browning leaves, mushy bulbs, and a foul odor.
• What causes it: Overwatering, poorly drained soil, and fungal pathogens. Alkaline soil that doesn't drain well exacerbates this.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure well-draining soil. Avoid overwatering. Amend heavy clay soils with compost or other organic matter. Plant in raised beds if drainage is a persistent issue.

Mountain West Specific Challenges: While our low humidity helps prevent some fungal diseases, the intense sun can stress plants if they don't get enough water. Hail can also damage leaves, so consider using row covers during periods of severe weather.

Chives are great companions in the garden. They repel certain pests and attract beneficial insects.

Good companions for Chives include:

• Carrots: Chives repel carrot root flies, protecting your carrot crop.
• Tomatoes: Chives can help deter aphids and other pests that attack tomatoes.
• Roses: Chives are said to improve the fragrance and health of roses.
• Grapes: Chives deter Japanese beetles that love to feast on grape leaves.

Avoid planting Chives near:

• Beans (green): Chives can inhibit the growth of beans.
• Peas: Chives can also negatively impact pea growth.