Chives in Zone 5B — Northeast

Chives are a must-have for any Northeast garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from summer salads to baked potatoes, and they're so easy to grow. Plus, there's nothing quite like the satisfaction of snipping fresh herbs from your own backyard, especially when our cool nights seem to intensify their taste.

Our short growing season and the occasional late spring frost can be a challenge, but chives are surprisingly hardy. With a little planning, you can easily squeeze in a productive chive harvest within our 168-day growing season.

Starting chives indoors in the Northeast is an option, though not always necessary given their hardiness. If you want a head start, aim for early to late February, about 8 weeks before transplanting. This is especially useful if you're after a larger harvest early in the season.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, and keep them in a warm spot with plenty of light – a sunny windowsill or under grow lights works well. Water from the bottom to prevent damping off. Remember, our springs can be slow to warm up, so starting indoors gives you a buffer.

Transplant your chive seedlings outdoors mid April through early May, once the danger of a hard frost has passed. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the cooler temperatures and stronger sunlight.

Space them 8-12 inches apart in well-drained soil. Keep an eye on the weather forecast – late frosts can still happen in April, so be ready to cover them if needed. Buying starts from a local garden center or dividing an existing clump is a much faster way to establish a chive patch than starting from seed, too.

Direct sowing chives is definitely possible here in the Northeast, from late March through early July. Prepare a well-drained seedbed and make sure the soil temperature is consistently above 50°F (10°C).

Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep, spacing them 8-12 inches apart. Be patient, as chives are slow to establish from seed. While direct sowing is easy, divisions or starts will give you a quicker harvest.

Chives need moderate, consistent watering, which is especially important in our Northeast climate. While we get a decent amount of rainfall, our summers can have dry spells, so keep an eye on your plants. They're more tolerant of moisture than some other herbs, but still need good drainage.

During the spring and fall, when temperatures are cooler and rainfall is more frequent, you might only need to water once a week, if at all. In the peak of summer, when temperatures hit those typical highs around 82°F, and we experience moderate-to-humid conditions, check the soil moisture more frequently. Stick your finger about 2 inches deep – if it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week, either from rain or irrigation.

Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, as our moderate-to-humid conditions can encourage fungal diseases. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves, while overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and potential bulb rot. A layer of mulch, like shredded bark or compost, can help retain moisture and keep the soil cool, which is beneficial during warmer periods.

You can expect your first chive harvest from mid June through mid October in our Northeast gardens. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall. The leaves will be a rich green color and stand upright.

To harvest, simply snip the leaves 1-2 inches above the base with scissors or garden shears. This encourages new growth. You can harvest continuously throughout the growing season.

As the first frost approaches in early October, cut back the entire plant to a couple of inches above the soil. This will encourage new growth the following spring. Every 3 years, divide the clumps to maintain vigor and prevent overcrowding.

Here are a few common problems to watch out for with chives in the Northeast:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots near the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion-family plants. The larvae then burrow into the bulbs and feed.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Encourage beneficial insects like parasitic wasps.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and a soft, mushy bulb that may have a foul odor.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly drained soil creates conditions that favor fungal and bacterial growth.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure well-drained soil. Avoid overwatering. Amend heavy clay soils with compost or other organic matter.

Northeast Specific Challenges: Our moderate heat, moderate-to-humid humidity, and even rainfall can create conditions that favor fungal diseases like rust and bulb rot. Be sure to provide good air circulation and avoid overhead watering to minimize these risks.

Chives make excellent companions for several plants in the Northeast garden. Carrots benefit from chives because the strong scent repels carrot rust flies. Tomatoes also thrive near chives, as they deter aphids and other pests. Roses benefit from having chives nearby, as they help to prevent black spot and other fungal diseases. Grapes can benefit from the pest-repelling properties of chives.

Avoid planting chives near beans or peas, as they can inhibit their growth. The allium family can stunt the growth of legumes.