Chives in Zone 6A — Mountain West

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Mountain West garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from eggs to salads, and they're incredibly easy to grow in our intense sunlight and cool nights. Plus, the satisfaction of snipping fresh herbs you've grown yourself, especially when the growing season is short, is hard to beat.

Our high altitude, intense UV, and alkaline soil present unique challenges, but with careful timing and attention, you can enjoy a bountiful chive harvest. With our typical 153-day growing season, starting at the right time is key.

Starting chives indoors is an option, but honestly, it's not usually necessary here. If you're itching to get a head start, aim for mid-February through early March, giving you about 8 weeks before transplanting.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, provide consistent warmth, and make sure they get plenty of light. Bottom watering helps prevent damping off, which can be a problem with seedlings. Remember, spring can be late here, so be patient!

Transplant your chive seedlings outdoors mid-April through mid-May, once the danger of hard frost has passed. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Space them 8-12 inches apart in a sunny or partially shaded spot. Spring weather can be unpredictable, so keep an eye on the forecast and be ready to cover them if a late freeze threatens. Honestly, buying established starts or dividing existing clumps is a much faster route to fresh chives.

Direct sowing chives is definitely possible in our region, but be prepared for a slower start. Sow seeds early April through late June, once the soil has warmed up a bit.

Prepare the soil well, ensuring it's loose and free of rocks. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge. Thin them to 8-12 inches apart once they're a few inches tall. Just be aware that starting from seed takes longer, so divisions or starts are often preferred.

Chives thrive with moderate, consistent watering, which is essential in our dry Mountain West climate. While they're more tolerant of moisture than some other herbs, they still need regular attention.

During the hotter parts of summer, aim for about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Use the "finger test" – if the top 2 inches of soil feel dry, it's time to water. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases, even though our humidity is low.

Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves. Overwatering can lead to bulb rot, so make sure the soil drains well. A layer of mulch, like shredded bark or straw, can help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, which is especially helpful with our intense sun.

You can expect your first chive harvest late June through early October, about 80 days after planting. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall before harvesting.

To harvest, simply cut the leaves 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth and keeps your chives producing throughout the season. Harvest regularly to prevent the plant from flowering, which can diminish the flavor.

As the first frost approaches in early October, cut back the chives to a few inches above the ground. They'll go dormant over the winter and return in the spring. Divide clumps every 3 years to maintain vigor.

Here are a few common problems you might encounter with chives in the Mountain West:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Seedlings may wilt and die. Bulbs may be tunneled.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay eggs near the base of plants, and the larvae burrow into the bulbs.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any affected plants. Rotate crops regularly.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. While our humidity is low, moisture on leaves from watering can trigger it.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and mushy bulbs.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly draining soil, leading to fungal or bacterial infections.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure good soil drainage. Water only when the top 2 inches of soil are dry. Avoid overwatering, especially during cool periods.

Mountain West Specific Challenges: Our moderate-at-altitude heat, low humidity, and dry rainfall generally help minimize disease pressure on chives. However, our intense sun can stress plants if they're not adequately watered. Also, hail storms can damage foliage, so consider protecting your chives with netting if hail is in the forecast.

Chives are great companions for many plants in your Mountain West garden. They deter pests from carrots and tomatoes. Plant them near roses and grapes to help prevent black spot and mildew. The strong scent of chives repels many insect pests, making them a valuable addition to your garden ecosystem.

Avoid planting chives near green beans and peas, as they can inhibit their growth. This is because chives can suppress the growth of legumes.