Chives in Zone 6B — Pacific Northwest

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Pacific Northwest garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from scrambled eggs to potato salads, and the cheerful purple blossoms attract pollinators. Plus, cool nights here in the PNW seem to enhance their flavor, making them even more delicious.

While we might struggle a bit with heat-loving plants, Chives thrive in our mild summers. You have a solid 162-day growing season to enjoy them, and careful timing will help you overcome the cool spring soil and any potential issues.

Starting Chives indoors gives you a jumpstart on the season, especially if you're after an early harvest. Start your seeds indoors from mid February through early March, giving them about 8 weeks before transplanting. This can be helpful if you want a head start, but honestly, Chives establish pretty well from direct sowing too.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix and provide consistent warmth and bright light – a grow light is really helpful during our overcast spring days. Remember to water from the bottom to avoid damping off and encourage strong root growth.

Transplant your Chives seedlings outdoors from mid April through mid May, once the danger of hard frost has passed. Be sure to harden them off for about a week beforehand, gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions. This helps them adjust to the cooler temperatures and stronger sunlight.

Space your plants 8-12 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Keep an eye on the weather forecast – we can still get some chilly nights and wet weather during this time. Honestly, though, buying starts from a local nursery or dividing existing clumps is much faster than starting from seed.

Direct sowing Chives is a simple and effective method, especially if you're not in a huge rush. Sow seeds directly into the garden from early April through early July. Prepare the soil well, ensuring it's loose and free of weeds. Chives seeds need a soil temperature of around 60°F to germinate.

Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep and space them 8-12 inches apart. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge. Keep in mind that Chives are slow to establish from seed, so be patient! Divisions or starts will give you a quicker harvest.

Chives appreciate consistent moisture, especially during our dry summer months. Aim for moderate watering, as they are less drought-tolerant than some other herbs. They actually tolerate more moisture than other herbs.

During the wet springs, you might not need to water at all, but once the dry summer months arrive, check the soil moisture regularly. Stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil – if it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation.

Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases. Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves, while overwatering can lead to bulb rot. A layer of mulch around the plants can help retain moisture and suppress weeds – a good idea with our tendency toward slugs.

You can expect your first harvest of Chives from late June through mid October, about 80 days after planting. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall. These are ready to be snipped.

To harvest, simply cut the leaves 1-2 inches above the base of the plant with scissors or garden shears. This encourages new growth and keeps the plant producing throughout the season. Harvest regularly to prevent the plants from flowering, which can diminish the flavor of the leaves.

As the first frost approaches in early October, give your Chives a final trim. You can either let them die back naturally over the winter or pot up a few clumps to bring indoors for fresh herbs all winter long. Don't forget to divide your clumps every 3 years to keep them vigorous.

Here are a few common problems you might encounter with Chives in the Pacific Northwest:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots near the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion family plants, and the hatching maggots burrow into the bulbs and stems.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent the flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Companion planting with carrots can also help deter onion flies.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Soft, mushy bulbs, yellowing leaves, and a foul odor.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly drained soil creates an environment where fungal pathogens thrive, leading to bulb rot.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure your soil is well-draining. Avoid overwatering, especially during wet springs. Consider planting Chives in raised beds or containers to improve drainage.

Pacific Northwest Specific Challenges: Our mild heat and dry-summer humidity can actually be beneficial for Chives, reducing the risk of some fungal diseases. However, our wet springs can increase the risk of bulb rot if the soil is not well-draining. Keep an eye out for slugs, especially on young plants.

Chives make excellent companions for many plants in the Pacific Northwest garden. Planting them near carrots helps deter carrot root flies, while planting them near tomatoes improves their flavor and repels pests. They're also great companions for roses, helping to prevent black spot and attract pollinators. Grapes also benefit from having Chives nearby, as they deter certain pests.

Avoid planting Chives near beans-green or peas, as they can inhibit their growth. The allium compounds in chives can negatively impact the growth of these legumes.