Chives in Zone 7A — Mountain West

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Mountain West garden. Their mild onion flavor brightens up everything from eggs to salads, and they're incredibly easy to grow in our intense sunlight. Plus, the purple flowers are beautiful and attract pollinators to your garden.

Our high altitude and short growing season present unique challenges, but chives are surprisingly resilient. With a little planning, you can enjoy fresh chives from mid-June through mid-October, making the most of our 173-day growing season.

Starting chives indoors gives you a head start, especially beneficial given our late springs. Begin in early to late February, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant. Use seed trays filled with a good seed-starting mix, and keep them in a warm spot, ideally around 70°F.

Bottom watering is your friend here: set the tray in a shallow dish of water and let the soil absorb it from the bottom. This prevents damping off and encourages strong root growth. Because our spring weather can be unpredictable, starting indoors offers more control over the young plants' environment.

Transplant your chives seedlings outdoors in early April through early May, once the danger of hard frost has passed. Before transplanting, harden off the seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This acclimates them to the intense sun and cool nights we experience.

Space the plants 8-12 inches apart in well-drained soil. Keep in mind that you can often find established chives starts at local nurseries, or even divide existing clumps from a friend's garden. This is often faster and easier than starting from seed.

Direct sowing chives is definitely an option, but be patient – they're slow to establish from seed. Sow seeds late March through early July, once the soil has warmed up a bit. Aim for a soil temperature around 60-70°F for best germination.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and adding some compost. Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep and space them 8-12 inches apart. Keep the soil consistently moist. While direct sowing works, remember that divisions or starts will give you a quicker harvest and more established plants.

Chives need consistent moisture, but they don't like to be waterlogged. In our dry Mountain West climate, that means paying close attention to their watering needs. During the peak of summer, when temperatures are around 85°F, you'll likely need to water them more frequently than in the cooler spring and fall.

A good rule of thumb is to check the soil moisture about two inches deep – the "finger test." If it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about an inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Because our humidity is low, you can water at the base of the plants without worrying too much about foliar diseases.

Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves. Overwatering can lead to bulb rot, especially in poorly drained soil. A light layer of mulch, like straw or wood chips, can help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, which is especially useful given our intense sun.

You can expect your first chives harvest in mid-June through mid-October, about 80 days after planting from seed. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall. The best time to harvest is in the morning after the dew has dried.

To harvest, simply snip the leaves off 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth. Don't be afraid to harvest regularly – the more you cut, the more they'll produce. As the first frost approaches in early October, you can either let the plants die back naturally or pot some up to bring indoors for winter use.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with chives in the Mountain West:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or stunted growth, yellowing leaves, and small white maggots near the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion-family plants. The maggots then burrow into the bulbs and feed, damaging the plant.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Rotate crops to avoid buildup of the pest in the soil.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing and wilting leaves, mushy bulbs, and a foul odor.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly draining soil creates an environment where fungal pathogens thrive and attack the bulbs.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure well-draining soil. Avoid overwatering. Amend heavy clay soils with compost or other organic matter.

Mountain West Specific Challenges: The moderate-at-altitude heat and low humidity of the Mountain West generally help to reduce fungal diseases like rust. However, our intense UV light can stress plants, making them more susceptible to pests. Consistent watering and well-drained soil are key to keeping your chives healthy.

Chives are great companions for many plants in the Mountain West garden:

• Carrots: Chives repel carrot root flies, protecting your carrot crop.
• Tomatoes: Chives are said to improve the flavor of tomatoes and deter aphids.
• Roses: Chives can help deter aphids and black spot on roses.
• Grapes: Chives can help deter pests that attack grapevines.

Avoid planting chives near:

• Beans and Peas: Chives can inhibit the growth of beans and peas. The allium family is generally not good for legumes.