Chives in Zone 7A — Pacific Northwest

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Pacific Northwest garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from scrambled eggs to salads, and their pretty purple flowers attract pollinators. Plus, they're incredibly easy to grow in our mild summers and cool nights, adding a touch of culinary delight right outside your door.

Our wet springs and relatively short growing season (around 183 days) mean you need to be mindful of timing, but chives are quite forgiving. With a little planning, you'll be snipping fresh chives from your garden from mid-June well into the fall.

Starting chives indoors is an option, especially if you're eager for an early harvest. Begin in early to late February, giving the seedlings about 8 weeks to develop before transplanting. This head start is especially useful given our slow-to-warm spring soil.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, and ensure they get plenty of light – a grow light works wonders on our overcast spring days. Keep the soil consistently moist by bottom watering; this helps prevent damping-off.

Transplant your chives seedlings outdoors in early April through early May. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This prevents transplant shock.

Space the plants 8-12 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Keep an eye on the weather – a late frost can happen, so be prepared to cover them if needed. Honestly, though, buying starts from a local nursery or dividing existing clumps is much faster and easier than starting from seed.

Direct sowing chives is certainly possible in the Pacific Northwest. Sow seeds from late March through mid July, once the soil has warmed up a bit. Prepare the soil by loosening it and removing any rocks or debris.

Sprinkle the seeds evenly over the soil and lightly cover them with about ¼ inch of soil. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge. Just be aware that chives are slow to establish from seed, so you'll need some patience. Again, divisions or starts will give you quicker results.

Chives need moderate and consistent watering, especially during our dry summer months. They're more tolerant of moisture than some other herbs but don't like to sit in soggy soil. During the wet springs we often have, you may not need to water at all.

A good rule of thumb is the "finger test": stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our sometimes humid conditions.

Signs of underwatering include wilted or yellowing leaves, while overwatering can lead to root rot. Adding a layer of mulch, such as compost or shredded bark, helps retain moisture and keeps the soil cool during our mild summers.

You can expect your first harvest of chives around mid-June, and you can continue harvesting through late October. Once the leaves are about 6 inches tall, cut them 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth.

Snip off what you need with scissors, and don't be afraid to harvest regularly; the more you cut, the more they'll grow. Towards the end of the season, as our first frost approaches in mid- October, you can either continue to harvest as needed or let the plants die back naturally. You can also dig up a clump and pot it for indoor use over the winter. Divide clumps every 3 years to keep them vigorous.

Here are a few potential problems you might encounter with chives in the Pacific Northwest:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots at the base of the plant near the bulbs.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion family plants. The maggots hatch and feed on the bulbs.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent the flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Companion planting with carrots can help deter onion flies.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing or browning leaves, soft and mushy bulbs, and a foul odor.
• What causes it: Overly wet soil, especially during our wet springs, can lead to bulb rot.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure good drainage in your planting area. Avoid overwatering, especially during rainy periods. Amend heavy clay soil with compost to improve drainage.

Pacific Northwest Specific Challenges: Our mild summers and dry-summer humidity usually aren't conducive to the worst fungal diseases, but prolonged wet periods can still create problems. Make sure your chives have good drainage and air circulation. Late blight is more of a tomato and potato problem, but it thrives in similar conditions, so be vigilant about fungal diseases in general.

Chives make excellent companions for several plants in the Pacific Northwest garden. Carrots benefit from chives because the oniony scent deters carrot root flies. Tomatoes also thrive near chives, as the chives help repel aphids and other pests that bother tomatoes. Roses benefit from having chives planted nearby, as they deter aphids and black spot. Grapes also enjoy the company of chives, as they help to repel certain pests and fungal diseases.

Avoid planting chives near beans-green and peas. Chives can inhibit their growth.