Chives in Zone 7B — Southeast

Chives are a must-have in any Southeast garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from eggs to salads, and they're so easy to grow in our long summer. Plus, the purple blooms attract pollinators, making them a beautiful and useful addition to your herb garden.

Our hot and humid summers can present some challenges, particularly with fungal diseases, but with proper timing and a little attention, you can enjoy a continuous harvest of chives throughout our long 235-day growing season.

Starting chives indoors gives you a head start, but honestly, it's not always necessary here in the Southeast. If you want to get a jump on the season, sow seeds indoors from early to late January, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant them outside.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix and keep them in a warm spot with plenty of light – a sunny windowsill or under grow lights works well. Bottom watering helps prevent damping-off disease, which can be a problem in our humid climate. Our moderate spring weather means direct sowing works almost as well, so indoor starting is optional.

Transplant your chive seedlings outdoors from early March through early April, after the danger of a late frost has passed. Before transplanting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Choose a spot with full sun to partial shade, and space the plants 8-12 inches apart. Keep an eye on the weather forecast – those early spring temperature swings can be tough on young plants. Honestly, buying starts from your local nursery or dividing an existing clump is a lot faster and easier than starting from seed.

Direct sowing chives is easy and effective, especially with our long growing season. Sow seeds from mid February through early August, directly into well-prepared soil.

Choose a spot with full sun to partial shade, and make sure the soil is loose and well-draining. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seeds germinate and the seedlings are established. Space plants 8-12 inches apart. Just be aware that chives are slow to establish from seed, so divisions or starts will give you quicker results.

Chives need moderate, consistent watering, especially during our hot and humid summers. They're more tolerant of moisture than many other herbs, but they still need well-draining soil to prevent bulb rot.

During the hotter months, check the soil moisture regularly. Stick your finger about two inches deep – if it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about an inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Water at the base of the plant rather than overhead to minimize fungal disease pressure in our humid climate.

Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves, while overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and bulb rot. A layer of mulch, like pine straw or shredded hardwood, helps retain moisture and suppress weeds, which is especially helpful in our long, hot summer.

You can expect your first harvest of chives starting in mid May and continuing all the way through mid November. The leaves are ready to harvest when they are at least 6 inches tall.

Cut the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant, and they'll regrow quickly. Regular harvesting encourages continuous production. As the first frost approaches in early November, cut back the plants to a few inches above the ground to encourage new growth in the spring. You should divide the clumps every 3 years to maintain vigor.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with chives in the Southeast:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots at the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of the plant, and the larvae feed on the bulbs.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy infested plants. Encourage beneficial nematodes in the soil.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing leaves, mushy bulbs, and a foul odor.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly draining soil, which is common with our clay soil in the Southeast, creates an environment where fungal pathogens thrive.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure good drainage by amending the soil with compost or other organic matter. Avoid overwatering. Plant in raised beds if necessary.

Southeast Specific Challenges: The hot, humid summers and frequent afternoon thunderstorms in the Southeast create ideal conditions for fungal diseases like rust and bulb rot. Good air circulation, proper watering practices, and well-draining soil are essential for keeping your chives healthy.

Chives are great companions for many plants in your Southeast garden. Carrots benefit from chives because they repel carrot root flies. Tomatoes grow well with chives because they are said to improve the flavor of tomatoes and deter pests. Roses benefit from chives because they deter aphids and black spot. Grapes also benefit from chives as they deter Japanese beetles.

Avoid planting chives near beans-green and peas, as they can inhibit their growth. Companion planting is an easy way to keep your garden thriving.