Chives in Zone 8B — Desert Southwest

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Desert Southwest garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from eggs to salads, and they're incredibly easy to grow. Plus, the satisfaction of snipping fresh herbs from your own garden, even in our challenging climate, is hard to beat.

Sure, our extreme heat and alkaline soil present unique challenges, but with proper timing and a few smart strategies, you can enjoy a steady supply of chives throughout our long, 279-day growing season. You'll find that growing during our two milder seasons can really help with summer survival.

Starting chives indoors makes sense if you want a head start, especially if you're after a large clump quickly. Begin in early to late December, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant. Use seed trays or small pots filled with well-draining potting mix.

Keep the soil consistently moist, using bottom watering to avoid disturbing the tiny seeds. Place the trays in a warm location with plenty of light, either from a sunny window or a grow light. Given our very-early spring character, indoor starting helps get a jump on the season.

Transplant your chive seedlings outdoors from mid February through mid March, after hardening them off for about a week. Gradually expose them to increasing amounts of sunlight and wind each day. This helps them adjust to the harsher outdoor conditions, preventing transplant shock.

Space the plants 8-12 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-draining soil. Keep in mind that buying established chive plants from a local nursery or dividing existing clumps is often a much faster way to get a mature plant. Be prepared for temperature swings; a sudden cold snap can still happen at this time of year.

Direct sowing chives is possible, but it can be a slower process. Sow seeds from late January through late August, when the soil has warmed up a bit. Prepare the soil by loosening it and adding compost to improve drainage and fertility.

Sow the seeds about ¼ inch deep and space them 8-12 inches apart. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge. Be patient; chives can be slow to establish from seed. Again, divisions or starts will get you to fresh chives faster.

Chives need consistent moisture, especially in our arid Desert Southwest climate. Water deeply whenever the top two inches of soil feel dry to the touch – use the "finger test" to check. During the hottest parts of summer, this might mean watering every other day, while in the cooler spring and fall, once or twice a week might suffice.

Aim for about one inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, as this can encourage fungal diseases in our often-humid monsoon season.

Signs of underwatering include wilting and yellowing leaves. Overwatering, on the other hand, can lead to bulb rot, especially in heavy clay soils. A layer of organic mulch, like compost or shredded bark, can help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.

You can expect your first harvest of chives around mid April through early December, about 80 days after planting. The leaves are ready to harvest when they are at least 6 inches tall.

Use sharp scissors or garden shears to cut the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base. This encourages new growth and keeps the plant producing. Harvest regularly to prevent the chives from flowering, which can make the leaves tougher and less flavorful.

As the first frost approaches in early December, cut back the chives to a few inches above the ground. They will go dormant over the winter and re-emerge in the spring. Divide clumps every three years to maintain vigor.

Here are a few common problems you might encounter with chives in the Desert Southwest:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots at the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of the chives, and the larvae burrow into the bulbs and feed.
• How to fix/prevent it: Cover plants with row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy infested plants. Use beneficial nematodes to control larvae in the soil.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot

• What it looks like: Soft, mushy bulbs, yellowing leaves, and a foul odor.
• What causes it: Overwatering, poor drainage, and fungal pathogens in the soil.
• How to fix/prevent it: Improve drainage by amending the soil with compost or planting in raised beds. Avoid overwatering. Apply a fungicide if necessary.

Desert Southwest Specific Challenges: The extreme heat of our summers can stress chives, making them more susceptible to pests and diseases. Our arid humidity can also lead to rust if plants are watered overhead. Be sure to provide adequate shade during the hottest part of the day and water at the base of the plants to minimize these issues. The monsoon moisture is welcome but can promote fungal issues, so be vigilant.

Chives are great companions for several plants in your Desert Southwest garden. Carrots benefit from chives because they repel carrot root flies. Tomatoes thrive alongside chives, as they can deter aphids and other pests.

Roses also appreciate chives nearby, as they help to prevent black spot. Grapes benefit, too, as the onion-like scent can deter certain pests. Avoid planting chives near beans or peas, as they can inhibit their growth. The allium compounds in chives can negatively affect legumes.