Chives in Zone 8B — Northern California

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Northern California garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from scrambled eggs to baked potatoes, and they're surprisingly easy to grow in our Mediterranean climate. Plus, the little purple flowers are a delight!

We do have our challenges here – drought, fire season, and summer water restrictions are always on our minds. But with a little planning and water-wise gardening techniques, you can enjoy a bountiful chive harvest during our long, 269-day growing season.

Starting chives indoors isn't strictly necessary in our mild climate, but it can give you a head start. If you're itching to get your hands dirty during those cooler months, aim to sow seeds indoors from mid December through early January. This gives them about 8 weeks to get a jump before transplanting.

Use seed trays with good drainage and a decent seed-starting mix. Keep them warm and provide plenty of light – a grow light works wonders. Water from the bottom to encourage strong root growth and prevent damping off.

Transplanting chives outdoors is best done from mid February through mid March. This avoids the worst of any late frosts we sometimes see. Before planting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Space them about 8-12 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-draining soil. Keep an eye on the forecast – we sometimes get unexpected cool snaps in early spring, so be ready to cover them if needed. Honestly, though, buying starts or dividing existing clumps is a much faster way to get established chives.

Direct sowing chives is definitely an option in Northern California. You can sow seeds directly into the garden from early February through late August. Choose a spot with full sun to partial shade and well-drained soil.

Make sure the soil temperature is consistently above 60°F for best germination. Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep and keep the soil consistently moist. Just be aware that chives are slow to establish from seed, so be patient! Divisions or starts will give you a quicker harvest.

Chives like consistent moisture, but they don't want to be waterlogged. Here in Northern California, where our summers are dry, you'll need to pay attention to their watering needs, especially during the hotter months.

During the spring and fall, when temperatures are milder, water deeply about once a week, providing about 1 inch of water. In the heat of summer, you might need to water every 2-3 days, especially if they're in full sun. Always do the finger test – stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water.

Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our microclimates. Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves. Overwatering can lead to bulb rot, so watch out for soggy soil. A layer of mulch around the base of the plants helps retain moisture and suppress weeds, which is particularly useful given our increasing water restrictions.

You can expect your first chive harvest from late April through early December in Northern California. Once the leaves are about 6 inches tall, you can start snipping.

Cut the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth. Chives are a cut-and-come-again herb, so harvest regularly to keep them producing.

As our first frost approaches in late November, give your chives a good haircut. They'll likely go dormant over the winter, but they'll bounce back strong in the spring. Every 3 years, divide the clumps to keep them vigorous and prevent overcrowding.

Here are a few common problems you might encounter with chives in Northern California:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Yellowing or wilting leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots at the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of the plant, and the larvae feed on the bulbs and roots. This is more common in areas with poorly draining soil.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy infested plants. Improve soil drainage.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot

• What it looks like: Soft, mushy bulbs and yellowing, wilting leaves.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly draining soil can lead to bulb rot, especially during our wetter winter months.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure your chives are planted in well-draining soil. Avoid overwatering, especially during the rainy season. If bulb rot is a recurring problem, consider planting in raised beds or containers.

Northern California Specific Challenges: Our moderate-to-hot heat and dry summers mean you'll need to pay close attention to watering, especially if your chives are in full sun. Mulching can help retain moisture and prevent the soil from drying out too quickly.

Chives are great companions for many plants in your Northern California garden. They deter pests and improve the flavor of certain crops.

Good companions include:

• Carrots: Chives deter carrot root flies.
• Tomatoes: Chives help repel aphids and other pests that can attack tomatoes.
• Roses: Chives are said to improve the fragrance and health of roses.
• Grapes: Chives deter Japanese beetles.

Avoid planting chives near:

• Beans (green): Chives can inhibit the growth of beans.
• Peas: Similar to beans, chives can stunt the growth of peas.