Chives in Zone 9B — Desert Southwest

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Desert Southwest garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from scrambled eggs to tacos, and they're incredibly easy to grow. Plus, the cheerful purple blooms attract pollinators to your garden, which is always a win in our arid climate.

While our extreme heat and alkaline soil present challenges, chives are surprisingly adaptable if you time things right. With our long 313-day growing season, you can enjoy fresh chives for most of the year. Careful watering and a little shade during the worst of the summer heat will keep them thriving.

Starting chives indoors gives you a head start, especially if you want a big harvest early in the season. Start seeds indoors from mid-November through mid-December, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant. Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, and keep them warm – a heat mat helps – and under grow lights.

Bottom watering is key to avoid damping off, especially with our very-early spring character; just set the tray in a shallow dish of water until the soil surface is moist. This method encourages strong root growth. Starting indoors is especially useful if you want larger clumps to transplant, but direct sowing often works just as well.

Transplant your chives outdoors from late January through mid-February. This avoids the worst of our winter cold snaps and sets them up for spring growth. Before transplanting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Space them 8-12 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-draining soil. Even though our winters are mild, be prepared to cover them if a late freeze threatens. Keep in mind that buying established chive starts or dividing existing clumps is a much faster way to get a productive plant than starting from seed.

Direct sowing chives is a simple option, particularly if you're not in a hurry. Sow seeds directly into the garden from early January through mid-September. The earlier you sow, the more established they'll be before our extreme summer heat arrives.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and mixing in some compost. Chive seeds need soil temperatures around 60-70°F to germinate well. Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep and keep the soil consistently moist. Be patient; chives are slow to establish from seed, so divisions or starts are usually quicker.

Watering is crucial for chives in our Desert Southwest climate. While they need consistent moisture, overwatering can lead to problems. During the cooler spring and fall months, water deeply about once a week, providing about 1 inch of water.

In the extreme heat of summer, you'll likely need to water every other day, or even daily, to prevent them from drying out. Use the finger test: stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our monsoon season.

Signs of underwatering include wilting and yellowing leaves, while overwatering can cause the leaves to turn mushy or brown. A layer of mulch, like shredded leaves or straw, will help retain moisture in the soil and regulate soil temperature.

You can expect your first chive harvest from late March through late December, depending on when you planted them. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall and a healthy green color. These are mature enough to harvest.

To harvest, simply snip the leaves 1-2 inches above the base of the plant with scissors. This encourages new growth from the base. Harvest regularly to keep the plant producing. You can harvest continuously throughout the growing season.

As our first frost approaches in mid-December, don't worry too much. Chives are frost-hardy and will often continue to produce even after a light frost. After about three years, divide the clumps to maintain vigor and prevent overcrowding.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with chives in the Desert Southwest:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots at the base of the plant or in the bulbs.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of chives, and the larvae burrow into the bulbs. This is more common during our mild spring and fall.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Introduce beneficial nematodes to the soil to target the larvae.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves. This is most common during our monsoon season.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot

• What it looks like: Soft, mushy bulbs and yellowing, wilting leaves.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly draining soil leads to fungal or bacterial infections in the bulbs. This is exacerbated by our alkaline soil and caliche layers.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure good soil drainage. Avoid overwatering, especially during the monsoon season. Amend heavy clay soils with compost and other organic matter.

Desert Southwest Specific Challenges: Our extreme heat can stress chives, making them more susceptible to pests and diseases. Providing afternoon shade and ensuring consistent watering are crucial for their survival. The arid humidity can also lead to quicker drying of the soil, so regular monitoring is essential.

Chives make excellent companions for several plants in your Desert Southwest garden. Plant them near carrots to deter carrot root flies. They also benefit tomatoes by repelling aphids and other pests. Roses benefit from chives planted nearby because they deter black spot.

Grapes also enjoy the company of chives, as they help to repel Japanese beetles. Avoid planting chives near beans and peas, as they can inhibit their growth. The strong onion scent of chives can negatively impact the nitrogen-fixing abilities of these legumes.