Bell Peppers in Zone 7B — Texas

Bell peppers are a fantastic addition to any Texas garden. Their crisp, sweet flavor shines in everything from fajitas to salads, and the satisfaction of harvesting your own colorful peppers after battling the Texas heat is truly rewarding. Plus, you can get two harvests – one in early summer and another in the fall.

Our unpredictable weather can be a challenge, with the extreme heat, variable rainfall, and occasional hail. But, with a little planning and the right timing, you can absolutely grow bell peppers successfully here. Our long 255-day growing season gives you plenty of opportunity to get a great crop.

Starting your bell pepper seeds indoors is highly recommended in Texas to get a jump start on our long growing season. You'll want to start your seeds indoors from mid January through early February, roughly eight weeks before you plan to transplant them outside. This head start is crucial because our spring can arrive early, and you want seedlings ready to go.

Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix. Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy. Bottom watering is a great way to prevent damping-off – just set the tray in a shallow pan of water and let the soil absorb the moisture from the bottom. Place the trays in a warm location, ideally around 75-80°F, and provide plenty of light with grow lights or a sunny windowsill.

Transplant your bell pepper seedlings outdoors from late March through late April, after the danger of the last frost has passed. Before planting, it's essential to harden off your seedlings. Gradually expose them to outdoor conditions for about a week, starting with a couple of hours of shade each day and increasing the time and sunlight exposure.

When transplanting, space the plants about 18-24 inches apart in well-draining soil. Keep an eye on the weather during this time. We sometimes get unexpected temperature swings in early spring, so be prepared to cover your young plants if a late freeze threatens.

Bell peppers need consistent moisture to produce thick-walled, juicy fruits. Inconsistent watering is a major cause of blossom end rot and blossom drop here in Texas. Aim to keep the soil evenly moist, but not waterlogged.

During the hotter months (June-August), you'll likely need to water your bell peppers deeply two to three times a week, providing about 1-2 inches of water each time. Check the soil moisture by sticking your finger about 2 inches deep. If it feels dry, it's time to water. In spring and fall, you can reduce watering frequency as temperatures cool down. With our variable humidity, watering at the base of the plant is generally better than overhead watering, which can promote fungal diseases, especially when humidity is high.

Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and blossom drop. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. A good layer of mulch, like shredded hardwood or straw, can help retain moisture in the soil and regulate soil temperature, which is especially helpful during our hot summers.

Bell pepper plants can become quite heavy with fruit, and their branches are prone to breaking or toppling over, especially after a good rain. Providing support is a good idea, even though it's optional.

Simple stakes work well for supporting bell peppers. Insert a sturdy stake near each plant at planting time, being careful not to damage the roots. As the plant grows, gently tie the main stem to the stake with soft twine or plant ties. This will prevent the plant from falling over and keep the fruit off the ground.

Pruning bell peppers can improve airflow and fruit production. Pinch off any early flowers that appear before the plant is well-established. This encourages the plant to focus on vegetative growth first.

Throughout the season, remove any fruit that touches the ground to prevent rot. Prune out any crowded or crossing interior branches to improve air circulation and reduce the risk of disease. As the first frost approaches in mid- November, you can prune off any new flowers or small fruit that are unlikely to ripen before the cold weather arrives. This directs the plant's energy into ripening the remaining peppers.

You can expect your first bell pepper harvest from early June through late July, about 70 days after transplanting. Bell peppers can be harvested at any stage of maturity, but the flavor is sweetest when they are fully colored (red, yellow, or orange).

To harvest, use sharp pruners or scissors to cut the pepper from the plant, leaving a short stem attached. Avoid pulling the pepper, as this can damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production. As mid- November approaches, keep an eye on the forecast. If a frost threatens, harvest any remaining green peppers and bring them indoors to ripen. They may not be as sweet as vine-ripened peppers, but they'll still be delicious.

Bell peppers can be susceptible to a few common problems in Texas gardens:

• Blossom End Rot:
• What it looks like: A sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom of the fruit.
• What causes it: Calcium deficiency caused by inconsistent watering. The drought/flood cycles we often experience in Texas can really mess with calcium uptake.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently! Mulch heavily to maintain even soil moisture. Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen. Remove affected fruit.
• Blossom Drop:
• What it looks like: Flowers fall off without setting fruit. Small fruit yellows and drops.
• What causes it: Temperature stress. Our hot days and warm nights can prevent fruit set. Low humidity and excess nitrogen can also contribute.
• How to fix/prevent it: Be patient – fruit set resumes when temperatures moderate. Provide afternoon shade during extreme heat. Keep plants well-watered. Avoid excess nitrogen.
• Aphids:
• What it looks like: Clusters of tiny insects (green, black, or white) on stems and leaf undersides. Sticky honeydew residue.
• What causes it: Rapid-reproducing sap-sucking insects. Populations explode in warm weather. Fire ants may protect them.
• How to fix/prevent it: Strong water spray knocks them off. Encourage ladybugs. Insecticidal soap or neem oil for heavy infestations.
• Sunscald:
• What it looks like: White, papery patches on fruit exposed to direct sun.
• What causes it: Intense, direct sunlight on fruit, often after leaves are lost.
• How to fix/prevent it: Don't over-prune foliage. Use shade cloth in extreme heat. Maintain healthy foliage to shade fruit naturally.

Texas Specific Challenges: The combination of hot-to-extreme heat, variable humidity, and unpredictable rainfall can stress bell pepper plants, making them more susceptible to blossom end rot, blossom drop, and sunscald. Consistent watering, proper mulching, and providing afternoon shade during the hottest part of the summer are essential for success.

Companion planting can benefit your bell peppers. Tomatoes are great companions, as they provide shade and support. Basil repels pests and improves flavor. Carrots help loosen the soil. Onions deter pests. Spinach provides ground cover and helps retain moisture.

Avoid planting fennel near bell peppers, as it inhibits growth. Kohlrabi and other brassicas can compete for nutrients.