Strawberry in Zone 8A — Southeast

Strawberries are a true taste of summer, and you'll be hard-pressed to find any as delicious as the ones you've grown yourself. Here in the Southeast, our long summer and reliable rainfall make it possible to harvest plenty of sweet berries to enjoy fresh, freeze for later, or turn into jam. Plus, the satisfaction of outsmarting those pesky squirrels is a reward in itself!

Sure, we have our challenges with humidity and disease pressure in the Southeast, but with a good plan and smart timing, you can absolutely have a thriving strawberry patch. Our long growing season, typically around 245 days, gives you plenty of time to get a crop in before the first frost hits.

The ideal time to transplant your strawberry plants outdoors in the Southeast is from early to late March. This gives them a chance to settle in before our summer heat cranks up. Before planting, be sure to harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Space your plants about 12-18 inches apart to give them room to spread. Keep an eye on the weather forecast at this time of year; we can still get some cool snaps, so be ready to cover your plants if a late frost threatens. You'll want to buy bare-root plants or potted starts in the spring, as growing from seed can be slow and unreliable.

Strawberries need consistent moisture, especially when they're fruiting. They aren't drought-tolerant, so don't let them dry out completely. A good rule of thumb is to stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil; if it feels dry, it's time to water.

During our hot and humid summers in the Southeast, aim for about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Water at the base of the plants rather than overhead to help prevent fungal diseases, which thrive in our humid climate. Drip irrigation is ideal for this.

Keep an eye out for yellowing leaves, which can indicate overwatering, or wilting leaves, which can signal underwatering. Mulch heavily around your strawberry plants with straw or pine needles to help retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Strawberry plants don't need a lot of pruning, but a little maintenance goes a long way. Throughout the growing season, remove any runners that your plants send out, unless you want them to spread and create new plants. Removing the runners will direct the plant's energy into producing more fruit.

After your June-bearing strawberries have finished fruiting, renovate the bed by mowing or cutting back the foliage to about an inch above the crown. This encourages new growth and prepares the plants for the following season. As our first frost approaches around mid- November, you can remove any dead or diseased leaves to help prevent overwintering pests and diseases.

You can expect your first strawberry harvest in the Southeast from late May through mid July, depending on the variety you're growing. The berries are ready to pick when they're fully red with no white shoulders and have a fragrant aroma. They should also detach easily from the plant.

Gently grasp the berry with your fingers and twist it off, leaving the green cap attached. Harvest in the morning for the best flavor, as the berries will be cooler and less likely to bruise. Pick your strawberries regularly, every few days, to encourage continued production.

As the end of the season approaches and the weather cools down in mid- November, remove any remaining berries and foliage that are showing signs of disease. This will help keep your strawberry patch healthy for the following year.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with strawberries in the Southeast:

Gray Mold

• What it looks like: Fuzzy gray growth on berries, especially after wet weather.
• What causes it: A fungal disease that thrives in humid conditions.
• How to fix/prevent it: Improve air circulation by spacing plants properly. Remove infected berries promptly. Apply a fungicide if necessary.

Slugs

• What it looks like: Irregular holes in leaves, especially low-growing plants. Silvery slime trails on leaves and soil.
• What causes it: Gastropods that feed at night in moist conditions.
• How to fix/prevent it: Beer traps, iron phosphate bait, remove hiding spots, water in morning, copper tape, diatomaceous earth.

Birds

• What it looks like: Berries disappearing or with peck marks.
• What causes it: Birds are attracted to the ripe, red berries.
• How to fix/prevent it: Cover your strawberry patch with netting to keep birds out.

Strawberry Crown Borer

• What it looks like: Wilting plants, stunted growth, and small, white grubs inside the crown of the plant.
• What causes it: A beetle larva that tunnels into the crown of the plant, damaging the vascular system.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy infested plants. Rotate crops. Apply insecticides if necessary.

Verticillium Wilt

• What it looks like: Lower leaves yellow, wilt, and die, progressing upward. One side of plant may be affected first. Brown streaks in stem cross-section.
• What causes it: Soil-borne fungus that persists for years.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove infected plants. Rotate with non-susceptible crops. Solarize soil. Plant resistant varieties.

Southeast Specific Challenges: Our hot, humid summers and frequent rainfall create ideal conditions for fungal diseases like gray mold. Japanese beetles can also be a nuisance, feeding on the leaves and berries. Deer can be a problem, too, so consider fencing your strawberry patch to protect it.

Companion planting can be a great way to improve the health and productivity of your strawberry patch. Lettuce and spinach make excellent companions because they provide ground cover, which helps to keep the soil cool and moist. Onion and garlic can help to repel pests, while thyme and borage attract beneficial insects.

Avoid planting strawberries near broccoli, cauliflower, pepper, and tomato, as these plants can compete for nutrients or attract pests that also affect strawberries. These plants are also susceptible to verticillium wilt, which can easily spread to your strawberry plants.