Better Boy Tomato in Zone 9B — Desert Southwest

Better Boy Tomato is a classic for a reason. Its reliably delicious, medium-large fruit is perfect for slicing, salads, or sauces. Plus, in our Desert Southwest climate, its disease resistance makes it a winner, giving you a good chance at a successful harvest even when the summer heat cranks up.

Sure, desert gardening has its challenges — extreme heat and alkaline soil, to name a few. But with our long, 313-day growing season and careful planning, you can absolutely enjoy homegrown Better Boy Tomatoes. Timing is key to beating the summer heat!

Starting your Better Boy Tomato seeds indoors in early to late January gives them a head start before our very-early spring kicks in. This is about 6 weeks before you'll be able to transplant them outdoors.

Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix. Keep them warm (a heat mat helps) and provide plenty of light, either from a grow light or a sunny window. Don't forget to water from the bottom to keep the soil evenly moist without damping off the seedlings.

Transplant your Better Boy Tomato seedlings outdoors from mid February through mid March, after the last expected frost. Before you do, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Space them 24-36 inches apart to give them plenty of room to grow. Keep an eye on the weather forecast, since we can still get some unexpected temperature swings in late winter. A little protection with frost cloth is a good idea if a cold snap threatens.

Consistent watering is critical for Better Boy Tomatoes, especially in our arid Desert Southwest climate. In the spring, water deeply about 2-3 times a week, providing about 1-2 inches of water each time. Use the "finger test" – stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil; if it feels dry, it's time to water.

As the extreme heat of summer arrives, increase watering to every other day, or even daily, providing 2-3 inches of water per week. During our monsoon season, keep an eye on rainfall and adjust your watering accordingly. Remember that even during monsoon, the air is arid and the soil dries quickly.

Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage disease, especially during monsoon season. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and blossom end rot. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. Mulching around your plants helps to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.

Better Boy Tomatoes are indeterminate, meaning they'll keep growing and producing all season long. They get big and heavy, so sturdy support is a must.

A tall tomato cage or strong stakes work best. Install the support at planting time to avoid damaging the roots later. As the plant grows, gently tie the vines to the support to keep them upright and prevent the fruit from touching the ground.

Pruning your Better Boy Tomato plants helps to improve air circulation and fruit production. Focus on removing suckers – the small shoots that grow in the "V" between the main stem and branches.

Pinch off these suckers when they're small to direct the plant's energy into fruit production. Also, remove any yellowing or dead leaves from the bottom of the plant. As the end of the season approaches (first frost around mid- December), you can top the plant to encourage the remaining fruit to ripen.

You can expect your first Better Boy Tomato harvest from early May through mid June, about 72 days after transplanting. The tomatoes are ripe when they're a deep red color and have a slight give when gently squeezed.

To harvest, simply twist or cut the tomato from the vine, being careful not to damage the plant. Regularly harvesting ripe tomatoes encourages the plant to produce more. As the first frost approaches in mid- December, harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen. They'll ripen best in a single layer and out of direct sun.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with Better Boy Tomatoes in the Desert Southwest:

Blossom End Rot

• What it looks like: A sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom of the tomato.
• What causes it: Inconsistent watering, common in our climate's rapid dry-down, leading to calcium deficiency.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently, especially during fruit development. Mulch heavily. Remove affected fruit.

Cracking

• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin, either concentric circles around the stem or radial lines.
• What causes it: Heavy watering or monsoon rain after a dry spell. The fruit expands too quickly.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently. Mulch to maintain even moisture. Harvest promptly.

Hornworms

• What it looks like: Large sections of leaves stripped overnight. Big green caterpillars with white stripes.
• What causes it: These voracious pests love tomato plants.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick them (they're easy to spot). Bt spray is effective. Look for parasitic wasp cocoons and leave them alone to hatch.

Early Blight

• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings on lower leaves, spreading upward. Leaves yellow and drop.
• What causes it: A fungal disease that thrives in warm, humid conditions, spread by soil splash.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base. Use copper fungicide. Rotate crops yearly.

Desert Southwest Specific Challenges: Our extreme heat can cause sunscald on the fruit, so consider using shade cloth during the hottest part of the summer. The arid humidity means you need to be vigilant about watering, but it also reduces the risk of some fungal diseases. Be prepared for monsoon season and adjust your watering accordingly.

Companion planting can really help your Better Boy Tomatoes thrive. Basil is a great companion because it repels pests and is said to improve the flavor of the tomatoes. Carrots loosen the soil and don't compete for nutrients. Parsley attracts beneficial insects that prey on tomato pests. French marigolds deter nematodes and other soil pests.

Avoid planting brassicas (like cabbage and broccoli) near tomatoes, as they can stunt their growth. Fennel inhibits the growth of many plants, including tomatoes. Corn competes for nutrients and can shade your tomato plants too much, which isn't ideal for our region.