Early Girl Tomato in Zone 10A — Florida

Here in Florida, Early Girl Tomato is a winner. You get that home-grown tomato taste earlier than almost any other variety. It's versatile in the kitchen, and there's real satisfaction in harvesting your own tomatoes when everyone else is still waiting.

Our Florida gardening calendar is different, and summer is definitely the slow season. But with careful timing, you can beat the heat and humidity and get a great crop of Early Girls during our prime growing season. With our 355-day growing season, you've got plenty of time to make it happen!

Start your Early Girl Tomato seeds indoors from early to late December. This gives them about 6 weeks to get a head start before the weather is right for transplanting. Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix.

Keep the trays warm (around 70-75°F) and provide plenty of light. A simple shop light or grow light works well. To prevent damping off, water from the bottom by setting the tray in a shallow pan of water until the soil surface is moist. Remember, in Florida, spring is reversed, so you're starting these when most of the country is thinking about snow!

Transplant your Early Girl Tomato seedlings outdoors from late January through early March. This gives them time to establish before the real heat kicks in. Before transplanting, harden off the seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Plant them 24-36 inches apart in well-drained soil. Even though it’s still technically winter here, be mindful of unexpected warm spells and be prepared to water if the soil dries out too quickly.

Early Girl Tomatoes need consistent moisture, especially when they're setting fruit. In Florida's climate, that can be tricky. During our drier spring (late January through early May), aim for about 1-2 inches of water per week, depending on rainfall. Stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil near the base of the plant. If it feels dry, it's time to water.

Once our wet summer arrives (late May through early September), you may not need to water at all unless you have them in a very protected location. Just keep an eye on them. It's better to water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the leaves and encouraging fungal diseases in our humid climate.

Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and slow growth. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. A good layer of mulch around the base of the plants will help retain moisture and suppress weeds, which is always a plus.

Early Girl Tomatoes are indeterminate, meaning they'll keep growing and producing fruit all season long. They need support to keep the fruit off the ground and prevent the vines from sprawling. Standard 5-foot tomato cages or sturdy stakes work well.

Install the support at planting time to avoid damaging the roots later. As the plant grows, gently train the vines to grow up through the cage or tie them to the stake with soft twine.

Pruning Early Girl Tomatoes can help improve air circulation and encourage earlier ripening, which is especially important in Florida. Remove the suckers that grow in the "armpit" between the main stem and the branches. Focus on the lower suckers to promote faster ripening of the first fruits.

Continue pruning throughout the season as needed. As the first frost approaches in late December, you can top the plant to encourage the remaining green tomatoes to ripen.

You can expect your first harvest of Early Girl Tomatoes from mid March through mid May. These tomatoes are ready early in the season. Look for medium-sized fruit that has turned a deep red color. The fruit should be slightly soft to the touch.

Gently twist the tomato from the vine, being careful not to damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production. As the first frost approaches in late December, harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen. They'll ripen on a windowsill or in a paper bag.

Here are some common problems you might encounter growing Early Girl Tomatoes in Florida:

Blossom End Rot

• What it looks like: A sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom of the tomato.
• What causes it: Inconsistent watering leads to a calcium deficiency. The sandy soil here in Florida drains quickly, which makes consistent watering even more critical.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently, especially during dry spells. Mulch heavily to help retain moisture. Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen.

Early Blight

• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings (target pattern) on lower leaves, spreading upward. Leaves yellow and drop.
• What causes it: A fungal disease that thrives in our warm, humid conditions. Soil splash spreads the fungus onto the lower leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves. Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base of the plant. Improve air circulation through spacing and pruning. Copper fungicide can help slow the spread.

Hornworms

• What it looks like: Large sections of leaves stripped overnight. Look for large green caterpillars with white stripes and dark droppings on the leaves below.
• What causes it: These are the larvae of hawk moths. They can defoliate plants quickly.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick them (they're easy to spot). Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray is effective and organic.

Cracking

• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin, either concentric circles around the stem or radial lines radiating from the stem.
• What causes it: Heavy watering or rain after a dry spell. The fruit absorbs water faster than the skin can expand.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently to avoid the dry/wet cycle. Mulch to maintain even moisture. Harvest promptly when ripe.

Florida Specific Challenges: Our extreme humidity, combined with our wet-summer rainfall, makes Early Girl Tomatoes especially susceptible to fungal diseases like early blight. Sandy soil means you'll need to stay on top of watering to avoid blossom end rot.

Companion planting can help your Early Girl Tomatoes thrive. Basil is a great companion because it repels tomato hornworms and other pests. Carrots improve the soil and deter nematodes. Parsley attracts beneficial insects and also repels some pests. French marigolds repel nematodes and other soil pests.

Avoid planting brassicas (like cabbage and broccoli) near tomatoes, as they can inhibit tomato growth. Fennel also inhibits growth and attracts unwanted pests. Corn can attract tomato pests like the tomato fruitworm.