Early Girl Tomato in Zone 7B — Mid-Atlantic

Early Girl tomatoes are a fantastic choice for Mid-Atlantic gardens. Their quick maturity means you'll be enjoying juicy, flavorful tomatoes weeks before other varieties, perfect for summer salads and sandwiches. The taste of a homegrown tomato, especially one you've nurtured yourself, is simply unmatched.

Our Mid-Atlantic climate, with its humid summers and variable spring weather, can present challenges. But with careful timing and attention, you can absolutely succeed with Early Girl tomatoes. Our 214-day growing season provides ample time for them to thrive.

Starting Early Girl tomato seeds indoors from late February through mid March gives them a head start on our growing season. This is about 6 weeks before you plan to transplant them outdoors. Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix.

Keep the trays warm (around 70-75°F) using a heat mat, and provide plenty of light with grow lights or a sunny windowsill. Bottom watering helps prevent damping-off disease; simply place the tray in a shallow dish of water and let the soil absorb the moisture. The moderate spring temperatures we often experience in the Mid-Atlantic make indoor seed starting relatively easy.

Transplant your Early Girl tomato seedlings outdoors from mid April through late May, after the last frost. Before planting, harden off the seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. Start with an hour or two of shade, increasing the time and sun exposure each day.

Plant them 24-36 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Be sure to watch for late frost warnings, which can still occur even in late April in the Mid-Atlantic. If frost is predicted, cover your young plants with blankets or cloches.

Early Girl tomatoes need consistent moisture, especially during our humid summers. Aim for about 1-2 inches of water per week, depending on rainfall. The "finger test" is a reliable way to check: stick your finger into the soil about 2 inches deep. If it feels dry, it's time to water.

Water deeply at the base of the plant, avoiding overhead watering, which can promote fungal diseases in our humid Mid-Atlantic climate. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and dry soil, while overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot.

Mulching around your tomato plants with straw or wood chips helps retain moisture and suppress weeds, a real benefit in our region where weeds can quickly take over. Consistent watering is key to preventing blossom end rot.

Early Girl tomatoes are indeterminate, meaning they'll keep growing and producing fruit throughout the season. They need support to stay upright and healthy. Standard 5-foot tomato cages or sturdy stakes work well.

Install the support at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later. As the plant grows, gently guide the stems through the cage or tie them to the stake with soft twine. This prevents the plant from sprawling on the ground, which can lead to disease and pest problems.

Pruning Early Girl tomatoes encourages earlier ripening, which is especially helpful in our Mid-Atlantic climate. Focus on removing the suckers that grow in the "V" between the main stem and branches. These suckers will develop into additional stems, but they'll also divert energy from fruit production.

Prune the lower leaves as well to improve air circulation and reduce the risk of disease. Start this process after the plant is established and continue throughout the growing season. As the first frost approaches in early November, you can remove the top of the plant to encourage the remaining green tomatoes to ripen.

You can expect your first harvest of Early Girl tomatoes from early June through early August, depending on when you transplanted them. These tomatoes are known for ripening early in the season. Look for medium-sized fruits that have turned a deep red color.

Gently twist the tomato from the vine, leaving the stem attached. Regular harvesting encourages continued production. As the first frost approaches in early November, harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen. Place them in a paper bag with an apple or banana to speed up the ripening process.

• Blossom End Rot
• What it looks like: A sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom of the tomato.
• What causes it: Calcium deficiency caused by inconsistent watering. The fluctuating moisture levels common in our Mid-Atlantic summers (periods of heavy rain followed by dry spells) can disrupt calcium uptake.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently! Mulch heavily to maintain even soil moisture. Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen. Remove affected fruit.
• Early Blight
• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings (target pattern) on lower leaves, spreading upward. Leaves yellow and drop.
• What causes it: Fungal disease (Alternaria solani) that thrives in our warm, humid conditions. Soil splash spreads the fungus onto lower leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves. Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base. Improve air circulation through spacing and pruning. Copper fungicide can slow the spread. Rotate crops yearly.
• Hornworms
• What it looks like: Large sections of leaves stripped overnight. Large green caterpillars with white stripes. Dark droppings on leaves below.
• What causes it: Larvae of hawk moths. They love tomato family plants.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick them (they don't bite). Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray is effective and organic. Leave hornworms with white cocoons — they're being parasitized!
• Cracking
• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin — concentric circles around the stem or radial lines radiating from the stem.
• What causes it: Heavy watering or rain after a dry spell. The fruit absorbs water faster than the skin can expand. Common after summer thunderstorms in the Mid-Atlantic.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently. Mulch to maintain even moisture. Harvest promptly when ripe.

Mid-Atlantic Specific Challenges: The moderate-to-hot heat and humid humidity of our summers can exacerbate fungal diseases like early blight and increase the risk of cracking. Consistent watering and good air circulation are crucial for success. Deer pressure is also a concern, so consider fencing or deer repellent. And keep an eye out for Japanese beetles!

Basil is an excellent companion for Early Girl tomatoes because it repels tomato hornworms and whiteflies. Plus, it enhances the flavor of the tomatoes! Carrots improve soil aeration and attract beneficial insects. Parsley attracts hoverflies, which prey on aphids. Plant French marigolds around your tomatoes to deter nematodes and other soil pests.

Avoid planting brassicas (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower) near tomatoes, as they can stunt tomato growth. Fennel inhibits the growth of many plants, including tomatoes. Corn competes with tomatoes for nutrients and can also attract pests.