Sun Gold Tomato in Zone 7B — Mid-Atlantic

Sun Gold tomatoes are practically candy from the garden. Their bright, sweet flavor makes them irresistible, and they're fantastic in salads, snacks, or straight off the vine. Here in the Mid-Atlantic, our humid summers and reliable rainfall actually make them thrive, rewarding you with a huge crop.

We definitely have our challenges, like variable spring weather and deer pressure, but with a little planning, you can enjoy a bumper crop of these delicious tomatoes. Our 214-day growing season gives us plenty of time to get them going and producing.

Starting your Sun Gold tomato seeds indoors from late February through mid March gives them a head start on our growing season. This is about six weeks before you'll want to put them in the ground. Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix.

Keep the trays warm – a heat mat works wonders – and provide plenty of light with grow lights. Don't let them dry out! Bottom watering is a great way to keep the soil consistently moist without disturbing the seedlings. Given our moderate spring, it's best to keep them cozy indoors until the weather truly settles.

Transplant your Sun Gold tomato seedlings outdoors from mid April through mid May, once the danger of frost has passed. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the sun and wind.

Space them 24-36 inches apart to allow for their vigorous growth. Our spring weather can be unpredictable, so watch for late frost warnings and be prepared to cover your seedlings if needed.

Sun Golds need consistent watering, especially here in the Mid-Atlantic, because our humidity can lead to problems if the plants dry out and then get a drenching. Check the soil moisture by sticking your finger about two inches deep. If it feels dry, it's time to water.

Aim for about 1-2 inches of water per week, depending on rainfall. Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the leaves, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid summers.

Underwatering can lead to blossom end rot, while overwatering can cause root rot. Yellowing leaves or stunted growth are signs to watch for. A good layer of mulch around the base of the plants helps retain moisture and keeps the soil temperature even.

Sun Gold tomatoes are incredibly vigorous indeterminate plants, meaning they'll keep growing and producing all season. They need serious support to keep them off the ground. A tall, sturdy cage is usually the best option.

Install the support at planting time to avoid damaging the roots later. As the plant grows, gently weave the stems through the cage to keep it contained. Staking is another option, but it requires more frequent tying and attention.

Sun Golds are notorious for their sprawling growth habit, so pruning is essential to keep them manageable. Focus on removing the suckers that grow in the "V" between the main stem and the branches. These suckers will steal energy from fruit production.

Prune regularly throughout the season, especially after a good rain. As we approach the first frost around early November, you can top the plant to encourage the remaining green tomatoes to ripen.

You can expect your first Sun Gold tomatoes from mid June through late July, about 57 days after transplanting. The key is to watch for that signature orange-gold color and a slightly softened feel. They should practically fall off the vine when they're perfectly ripe.

Harvest gently to avoid bruising the fruit. Sun Golds are continuous producers, so keep picking them regularly to encourage more blossoms. As the first frost approaches in early November, harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen. They'll still taste great!

Here are some common problems you might encounter with Sun Gold tomatoes in the Mid-Atlantic:

Cracking

• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin, either concentric circles around the stem or radial lines radiating from the stem.
• What causes it: Inconsistent watering, especially heavy rain after a dry spell. Our even rainfall can sometimes be *uneven*, leading to this.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently, mulch well, and harvest promptly.

Over-production

• What it looks like: An overwhelming number of tomatoes, sometimes more than you can handle!
• What causes it: Sun Golds are simply prolific.
• How to fix/prevent it: Plant fewer plants next year, share with neighbors, or learn to can or freeze tomatoes.

Early Blight

• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings on lower leaves, spreading upward. Leaves yellow and drop.
• What causes it: A fungal disease that thrives in our warm, humid summers.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves, mulch well, water at the base, improve air circulation, and use copper fungicide if needed.

Mid-Atlantic Specific Challenges: Our moderate-to-hot heat and humid summers create the perfect environment for fungal diseases like early blight. Consistent watering is key to preventing cracking, but the humidity can make it tricky to avoid overwatering.

Good companions for Sun Gold tomatoes in the Mid-Atlantic include:

• Basil: Repels pests and improves tomato flavor. A must-have in any Mid-Atlantic garden!
• Carrots: Attract beneficial insects and loosen the soil.
• Parsley: Attracts beneficial insects and acts as a trap crop for some pests.
• French Marigolds: Repel nematodes and other soil pests.

Avoid planting tomatoes near:

• Brassicas (cabbage, broccoli, etc.): Can stunt tomato growth.
• Fennel: Inhibits the growth of many plants.
• Corn: Shares some of the same pests and diseases.