Sun Gold Tomato in Zone 8A — Florida

Sun Gold tomatoes are practically candy off the vine, and their sweetness shines even brighter when you've grown them yourself here in Florida. Their flavor is just incredible, and the fact that they produce like crazy means you'll have plenty for snacking, salads, and sharing with neighbors.

Our Florida gardening calendar is different, and the humidity can be intense, but Sun Golds planted at the right time can thrive. With a 283-day growing season, we can get a head start indoors and enjoy a long harvest before the summer heat really kicks in.

To get a jump start on the season, start your Sun Gold tomato seeds indoors from late January through mid February. This gives them about 6 weeks to get a good start before transplanting. Use seed starting trays with a good seed starting mix.

Keep the trays warm and provide plenty of light – a grow light works best. Bottom watering is your friend here; set the trays in a shallow container of water and let the soil soak it up from the bottom. This helps prevent damping off and keeps the seedlings healthy. Remember, spring in Florida is reversed; we're trying to beat the heat, not the cold!

Transplant your Sun Gold tomato seedlings outdoors from mid March through early April, after the last frost. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the sun and wind.

Space the plants 24-36 inches apart. Even though it's warming up, keep an eye on the weather; an unexpected cool snap can still happen this time of year. A little protection like a frost blanket can be a lifesaver.

Sun Gold tomatoes need consistent watering, especially here in Florida where the humidity is sky-high and the summer heat is intense. They aren't drought tolerant at all. Aim to water deeply about 1-2 times a week, providing about 1-2 inches of water each time.

Stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil – if it feels dry, it's time to water. Water at the base of the plant, avoiding overhead watering as much as possible to minimize fungal diseases, which thrive in our humid climate. During our wet-summer rainfall, you might not need to water at all some weeks!

Underwatering can lead to blossom end rot, while overwatering can cause root rot. Look for yellowing leaves as a sign of overwatering and wilting leaves for underwatering. Mulching around the base of the plants with pine straw or wood chips helps retain moisture and keeps the soil temperature consistent.

Sun Gold tomatoes are vigorous indeterminate growers, meaning they'll keep growing and producing all season long. They need strong support to keep them off the ground. A tall, sturdy cage is ideal, or you can use stakes.

Install the support at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later. As the plant grows, gently weave the stems through the cage or tie them to the stake with soft twine. These things get BIG here, so don't skimp on the support!

Pruning is essential for managing Sun Gold tomatoes in Florida's climate. These plants will take over if you let them! Focus on removing suckers – the small shoots that grow in the junction between the main stem and branches.

Prune these off regularly throughout the growing season to encourage more fruit production on the main stems. You can also prune the lower leaves as they start to yellow or show signs of disease. As we approach our first frost around early December, you can top the plant to encourage the remaining green tomatoes to ripen.

You can expect your first Sun Gold tomato harvest from early May through late June, about 57 days after transplanting. The tomatoes are ready when they turn a vibrant orange-gold color and are slightly soft to the touch. They are also intensely sweet at this point!

They will sometimes drop from the vine when they are very ripe. Gently twist or snip the tomatoes from the vine, being careful not to damage the plant. To encourage continued production, harvest regularly and remove any overripe or damaged fruit. As the first frost approaches in early December, harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen.

Here are three common problems you might encounter with Sun Gold tomatoes in Florida:

Cracking

• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin, either circles around the stem or lines radiating from the stem.
• What causes it: Heavy watering or rain after a dry spell. The fruit absorbs water too quickly.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently, mulch to maintain even moisture, and harvest promptly when ripe.

Over-production

• What it looks like: So many tomatoes that they overload the plant, causing branches to break and potentially hindering ripening.
• What causes it: Sun Golds are just prolific!
• How to fix/prevent it: Provide adequate support, prune regularly to manage growth, and harvest frequently to reduce the weight on the plant.

Early Blight

• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings (target pattern) on lower leaves, spreading upward. Leaves yellow and drop.
• What causes it: Fungal disease (Alternaria solani) that thrives in warm, humid conditions.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves, mulch to prevent soil splash, water at the base, improve air circulation, and use copper fungicide.

Florida Specific Challenges: The hot heat, very-high humidity, and wet-summer rainfall in Florida create the perfect environment for fungal diseases and cracking. Consistent watering, good air circulation, and proactive disease management are key to growing healthy Sun Golds here.

Good companions for Sun Gold tomatoes in Florida include basil, carrots, parsley, and French marigolds. Basil is said to improve the flavor of tomatoes and repel pests. Carrots loosen the soil and don't compete for nutrients. Parsley attracts beneficial insects. French marigolds deter nematodes in our sandy soil.

Avoid planting tomatoes near brassicas (like cabbage and broccoli), fennel, and corn. Brassicas can stunt tomato growth. Fennel inhibits the growth of many plants. Corn can attract the same pests, increasing the risk of infestation.