Arugula in Zone 10B — Florida

Arugula brings a delightful peppery kick to salads and sandwiches, and it's surprisingly easy to grow here in Florida. The taste is fresh, it's versatile in the kitchen, and there's nothing quite like snipping your own greens just minutes before you eat them. Plus, the Florida gardening calendar is different, and Arugula is a perfect crop to plant in fall, harvest in winter, and enjoy before our summer heat kicks in.

We've got our share of challenges here – humidity, nematodes, and the intense summer sun – but with a little planning, you can grow fantastic Arugula during our extended 360-day growing season. The key is timing your planting so that you can harvest before the real heat sets in.

Starting Arugula indoors is an option, but honestly, it's so fast-growing that direct sowing is usually the way to go. If you want a head start, though, sow seeds indoors from late November through mid December, about 3 weeks before you'd like to transplant them. Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix, keep them warm, and provide plenty of light.

Bottom watering is a great way to keep the soil moist without damping off. Remember that our spring character is reversed here in Florida, so we're trying to get ahead of the heat, not the cold, when we start seeds indoors.

Transplant your Arugula seedlings outdoors from late December through early February. Before you put them in the ground, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the sun and wind.

Space your plants about 6 inches apart. Keep an eye on the weather forecast – even though we're in Zone 10B, we can still get some unexpected chilly nights around this time, so be ready to cover your seedlings if necessary.

Direct sowing Arugula is a breeze and often the preferred method. Sow seeds early December through early November directly into well-prepared soil. Arugula germinates best in soil that's around 60-70°F, which is typical for our soil temps during that window.

Prepare your garden bed by loosening the soil and mixing in some compost. Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep and space them about 6 inches apart. Arugula is known for bolting in the heat, so planting during our cooler months is key.

Arugula needs consistent moisture to thrive, but it doesn't like to be waterlogged, especially in our humid Florida climate. During the cooler months, you might only need to water once or twice a week, depending on rainfall. During the warmer parts of the growing season, increase watering to every other day, or even daily if the soil dries out quickly.

Stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the leaves, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid environment.

If the leaves are wilting or turning yellow, you're likely overwatering. If the leaves are dry and the growth is stunted, you're likely underwatering. A light layer of mulch, like pine straw or shredded leaves, can help retain moisture in the soil and suppress weeds.

You can expect your first harvest of Arugula around mid to early January, about 40 days after planting. The best time to harvest is when the leaves are young and tender, about 2-3 inches long. At this size, they have a milder flavor. If you prefer a more peppery taste, let them grow a little larger, but be sure to pick them before the plants start to flower.

To harvest, simply snip off the leaves with scissors or pinch them off with your fingers. Avoid damaging the central stem, and the plant will continue to produce new leaves. Keep harvesting regularly to encourage continued production. As our first frost approaches in late December, you can cover your plants to extend the harvest a bit longer, but Arugula is pretty cold-hardy anyway.

Arugula, like any plant, can have its share of problems in the Florida garden. Here are a few common ones to watch out for:

Flea Beetles

• What it looks like: Tiny round holes (shot-hole pattern) in the leaves, especially on young seedlings. You might also see small, dark beetles that jump when disturbed.
• What causes it: These are small jumping beetles that feed on the leaves. They're most damaging to small, young plants and can be a real nuisance.
• How to fix/prevent it: Row covers are your best friend for protecting seedlings. You can also delay planting until your plants are larger and more resilient. Kaolin clay coating can deter them. Neem oil spray can help, too. Interplanting with basil or catnip might also help confuse them.

Bolting in Heat

• What it looks like: Your Arugula suddenly sends up a flower stalk, and the leaves become tough and bitter.
• What causes it: This happens when temperatures rise, signaling to the plant that it's time to reproduce. Given our Florida heat, this is a common issue.
• How to fix/prevent it: Time your plantings for the cooler months (fall and winter). Choose bolt-resistant varieties if you can find them. Provide some shade during warm spells. Mulch around the plants to keep the soil cool. Harvest frequently to delay bolting.

Aphids

• What it looks like: Clusters of tiny, soft-bodied insects (green, black, or white) on stems and leaf undersides. You might also see sticky honeydew residue and curled or distorted new growth.
• What causes it: These sap-sucking insects reproduce rapidly, especially in warm weather. Ant colonies often farm them for their honeydew.
• How to fix/prevent it: A strong spray of water can knock them off. Encourage ladybugs and lacewings, which are natural predators. Insecticidal soap can be effective for heavy infestations. Neem oil also works well. Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer, which attracts them.

Downy Mildew

• What it looks like: Yellow patches on leaf tops with fuzzy gray-purple growth on undersides. Leaves brown and die from the bottom up.
• What causes it: This is a fungal disease that thrives in cool, humid conditions. Our Florida humidity can definitely contribute to this problem.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves immediately. Improve air circulation around your plants. Water at the base, never overhead. Copper-based fungicides can help prevent it. Look for resistant varieties.

Florida Specific Challenges: The combination of hot heat, very-high humidity, and wet-summer rainfall means that Arugula can be a bit tricky to grow here. Focus on planting at the right time of year, providing good air circulation, and staying on top of watering to keep your plants healthy and productive.

Arugula benefits from companion planting in your Florida garden. Lettuce and spinach are great companions because they share similar growing requirements and don't compete for resources. Carrots and beets help loosen the soil, making it easier for Arugula roots to grow. Onions deter pests like aphids.

Avoid planting Arugula near strawberries. Strawberries are susceptible to certain soil-borne diseases that can also affect Arugula, so it's best to keep them separated to prevent the spread of disease in our often-humid Florida conditions.