Chamomile in Zone 3A — Mountain West

Chamomile is a fantastic addition to any Mountain West garden. Its delicate, apple-like flavor makes a soothing tea, and its cheerful blooms bring a touch of beauty to our high-altitude landscapes. Plus, the satisfaction of brewing a homegrown cup of chamomile tea after a long day working in the garden is hard to beat.

Our short growing season and intense sun can present challenges, but chamomile is surprisingly well-suited to our climate. With careful timing and attention to watering, you can enjoy a bountiful harvest from this hardy herb, even with our relatively short 96-day growing season.

Starting chamomile indoors gives you a head start, especially with our short season. Sow seeds late March through mid April, about six weeks before you plan to transplant. This is especially useful if you want a really early bloom.

Use seed trays or small pots filled with a well-draining seed-starting mix. Provide consistent warmth and bright light – a sunny windowsill or grow lights work well. Don't forget to water from the bottom to avoid disturbing the tiny seeds!

Remember, our spring weather in the Mountain West can be unpredictable. Starting indoors protects your seedlings from late frosts and gives them a strong start before facing the elements.

Transplant your chamomile seedlings outdoors mid May through mid June, after the danger of frost has passed. Before transplanting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the intense sun and cooler nights.

Plant seedlings 6-8 inches apart in well-drained soil. Even in late spring, keep an eye on the weather forecast, as we can get surprise hailstorms or late cold snaps that might require you to cover your young plants.

Direct sowing chamomile is definitely an option, especially if you're looking for a low-maintenance approach. Sow seeds mid May through late June, once the soil has warmed up a bit. Chamomile seeds need light to germinate, so just gently press them into the soil surface instead of burying them.

Keep the soil consistently moist until germination, which usually takes about 1-2 weeks. The downside to direct sowing is that you're more vulnerable to unpredictable weather and might get a later start than if you started indoors. Thin seedlings to 6-8 inches apart once they emerge.

Chamomile is drought-tolerant and prefers drier conditions, which suits our Mountain West climate perfectly. Overwatering is a surefire way to weaken your chamomile plants, leading to leggy growth and reduced flowering.

During the peak of summer (typically July and August), when temperatures are around 85°F, water deeply but infrequently – about once a week, or when the top two inches of soil feel dry to the touch. Use the finger test to be sure, and aim for about an inch of water per week. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in more humid climates (though this is less of a concern in our dry air).

In spring and fall, when temperatures are cooler and rainfall is more frequent, you'll likely need to water even less. Yellowing leaves can indicate overwatering, while drooping leaves signal underwatering. A light layer of mulch, like straw or wood chips, can help retain moisture in the soil and reduce the need for frequent watering, which is important in our dry climate.

You can expect your first chamomile harvest mid July through mid September, about 60 days after planting. The best time to harvest is in the morning after the dew has dried but before the sun gets too intense. Look for flowers where the petals are just beginning to bend slightly backward from the yellow center.

Gently pluck the flowers from the stems, taking care not to damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continuous production throughout the season. As our first frost approaches in early September, harvest all remaining flowers, even if they're not quite fully open, as they will still dry nicely.

To dry chamomile flowers for tea, spread them in a single layer on a screen or tray in a cool, dark, and well-ventilated place. Once they are completely dry and crumbly (usually after a week or two), store them in an airtight container.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with chamomile in the Mountain West:

Aphids

• What it looks like: Clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects (green, black, or white) on stems and leaf undersides. Sticky honeydew residue. Curled or distorted new growth.
• What causes it: Rapid-reproducing sap-sucking insects. Populations explode in warm weather. Ant colonies may farm them for honeydew.
• How to fix/prevent it: Strong water spray knocks them off. Encourage ladybugs and lacewings (natural predators). Insecticidal soap for heavy infestations. Neem oil works systemically. Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer (it attracts them).

Mealybugs

• What it looks like: White, cottony masses on stems and leaves, often in crevices. Stunted growth. Sticky honeydew.
• What causes it: Sap-sucking insects that thrive in warm, dry conditions. They're often brought in by ants.
• How to fix/prevent it: Wipe away with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Insecticidal soap or neem oil can also be effective. Control ant populations to prevent them from spreading mealybugs.

Thrips

• What it looks like: Tiny, slender insects that are difficult to see with the naked eye. Silvery streaks on leaves and flowers. Distorted or damaged blooms.
• What causes it: Sap-sucking insects that damage plant tissue. They are often blown in by wind and thrive in hot, dry weather.
• How to fix/prevent it: Strong water spray can dislodge them. Insecticidal soap or neem oil can be effective. Encourage beneficial insects like lacewings and predatory mites.

Mountain West Specific Challenges: Our intense sun can sometimes stress chamomile plants, making them more susceptible to pests. The dry air also means you need to be vigilant about watering, even though chamomile is drought-tolerant. Hail, common in our region, can damage plants, so consider using row covers during periods of severe weather.

Chamomile is a friendly plant in the garden. It gets along well with onions, cabbage, and broccoli because it is believed to deter cabbage moths and other pests that often target these vegetables. Cucumbers also benefit from chamomile, as it attracts pollinators that improve fruit set. Green beans enjoy chamomile's presence as it can help to repel bean beetles.

Avoid planting chamomile near fennel, as they can inhibit each other's growth.