Chamomile in Zone 7B — Pacific Northwest

Chamomile is a fantastic addition to any Pacific Northwest garden. Its delicate, apple-like flavor makes a soothing tea, and its cheerful blooms brighten up even the most overcast spring days. Plus, it's incredibly satisfying to grow your own calming herbs, especially with our cool nights enhancing their aromatic oils.

While our wet springs and mild summers can present some challenges, Chamomile thrives with a little attention to timing. Our long 193-day growing season gives you plenty of opportunity to enjoy a bountiful harvest. You'll find that with a few simple strategies, growing chamomile is very doable here.

Starting chamomile indoors isn't essential in our climate, but it can give you a head start, especially if you're eager for an early harvest. If you choose this route, aim to sow seeds indoors from mid-February through early March, about six weeks before you plan to transplant.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, and provide gentle bottom heat to encourage germination. Bottom watering helps prevent damping-off, a common problem with seedlings. A simple grow light will ensure your seedlings don't get leggy during our characteristically slow PNW springs.

Transplant your chamomile seedlings outdoors in early to late April, once the risk of a hard frost has passed. Before transplanting, be sure to harden off your seedlings for about a week, gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions. This helps them adjust to the cooler temperatures and stronger sunlight.

Space your chamomile plants 6-8 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Keep an eye on the forecast, as we can still get some unexpected cold snaps in April. A row cover can provide extra protection if needed.

Direct sowing chamomile is a simple and reliable option, especially given our mild summers. Sow seeds directly into the garden from early April through mid August. This flexible window takes advantage of our long growing season.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and removing any weeds. Chamomile seeds are tiny, so just press them lightly into the soil surface and keep them consistently moist until they germinate. Thin seedlings to 6-8 inches apart once they're established.

Chamomile is quite drought-tolerant once established, making it a great fit for our dry summer months in the PNW. Overwatering is a bigger concern than underwatering, as it can lead to leggy growth and root rot.

During our wet springs, you'll likely need to water very little, if at all. Once the dry summer months arrive, check the soil moisture by sticking your finger about 2 inches deep. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week during dry spells.

Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid springs. Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves, while overwatering can cause the leaves to turn brown and the stems to become soft. A light mulch of compost or straw can help retain moisture and suppress weeds, but avoid heavy mulching that can trap too much moisture.

You can expect your first chamomile harvest starting in late May and continuing through early November in our Zone 7B gardens. The flowers are ready to harvest when the petals begin to bend slightly backward. The best time to harvest is in the morning after the dew has dried, as this is when the flowers' essential oils are most concentrated.

Gently pluck the flower heads from the plant, being careful not to damage the stems. Regular harvesting encourages continued production throughout the season. As our first frost approaches in late October, harvest any remaining flowers to dry for tea, ensuring you get the most out of your chamomile plants before winter.

Aphids, mealybugs, and thrips can sometimes bother chamomile, but they're usually manageable in our climate.

Aphids:

• What it looks like: Clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects (green, black, or white) on stems and leaf undersides. Sticky honeydew residue. Curled or distorted new growth.
• What causes it: Rapid-reproducing sap-sucking insects. Populations explode in warm weather. Ant colonies may farm them for honeydew.
• How to fix/prevent it: Strong water spray knocks them off. Encourage ladybugs and lacewings (natural predators). Insecticidal soap for heavy infestations. Neem oil works systemically. Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer (it attracts them).

Mealybugs:

• What it looks like: Small, white, cottony masses on stems, leaves, and in leaf joints. Stunted growth. Sticky honeydew.
• What causes it: Sap-sucking insects that thrive in sheltered spots. Can be spread by ants.
• How to fix/prevent it: Wipe off with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Strong water spray. Introduce beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewing larvae. Insecticidal soap or neem oil.

Thrips:

• What it looks like: Tiny, slender insects (usually black or yellow) on flowers and leaves. Silvery streaks or stippling on foliage. Distorted or damaged flowers.
• What causes it: Tiny, winged insects that feed on plant sap. Attracted to light-colored flowers.
• How to fix/prevent it: Sticky traps. Strong water spray. Insecticidal soap or neem oil. Encourage beneficial insects like lacewings and predatory mites.

Pacific Northwest Specific Challenges: Our mild heat and dry-summer humidity can actually help minimize some pest and disease pressure on chamomile compared to hotter, more humid regions. However, our wet springs can create conditions that favor aphids, so keep a close eye on your plants during this time.

Chamomile makes a wonderful companion plant in the Pacific Northwest garden. Planting chamomile near onions, cabbage, and broccoli can help deter pests like cabbage moths and aphids, as its strong scent confuses them. It also benefits cucumbers and green beans, improving their growth and flavor. Avoid planting chamomile near mint, as they compete for resources and can inhibit each other's growth.